Andrews Valley-Casey Hut -Binser Saddle loop: 16-18 November 2012

The Andrews Valley to Binser Saddle Circuit

In mid November I tramped around the calssic Andrews-Casey-Binser saddle route in Arthurs Pass NP. The trac is rated as easy-moderate which I think relates more to the length of the track (36 kms over two days) rather than the technical nature of the track. Unfortunately the weather was absolutely atrocious....80+ kph winds, driving rain, sleet, hail and snow so it was less than ideal. 

View up Poulter Valley from the rise near Petes Stream

Note: I have supplemented the photos I took of this trip in 2012 with photos from another trip in 2020 to illustrate points. It was raining so much on the 2012 trip that my camera stayed in my pack for most of the trip. The recent trip was a lot better weather wise...

First view of Hallelujah Flats (October 2020)

The Andrews Valley-Poulter-Poulter Valley-Binser Saddle-Mt White Road Route is one of the few circuit tracks in Arthur's Pass NP. It is also one which crosses no major rivers so is safe in moderate rainfall conditions. There is an excellent route guide for this track; Casey-Binser Saddle Tracks.

Andrews River from the Andrews Valley Track (October 2020)

I had three days of lovely late Spring weather so inother words the theme for this trip was wet, WET, WET

Day one: Andrews Shelter to Casey Hut, 6-7 hours

The track from Andrews Shelter to Casey Hut is mostly in the bush so the threes protected me from the worst of the rain that was falling. The weather improved day by day as a front moved off the South Island  and it was clear and sunny on the last day of the tramp. 

Map: Andrews Valley-Poulter Valley area, Arthur's Pass National Park

Car parking area near Andrews Shelter, Arthur's Pass National Park

The posted DOC times for the track are a bit out for the Andrews Valley Track to Casey Hut. The time posted on the board at the track end is 6 hours but it took me 7 hours to get to the hut as the weather packed in and made travel more difficult. 

I also massively over estimated my fitness levels...this was way too long of a track for a first tramp. I should have started off with some longer day tramps first. I was also carrying far too much shite in my pack as I have not been tramping for a number of years but we live and learn...

Interior of Andrews Shelter, Arthur's Pass National Park

Andrews Shelter, at the start of the Andrews Valley Track

I left my car (the Red Beast...) parked at Andrews Sheleter...it is a very basic camp shelter with some bench seats, tables and a toilet. If staying here you need to get water from the nearby Andrews Stream (treat, filter or boil the water from this far down stream...). You could sleep on the concrete floor in the shelter but be aware that there is a slip prone bluff right behind the shelter that could 'squot you like a pumpkin' if there was a rock slip. 

Please note: DOC has made this a day shelter only so do not sleep here or they will either remove it or lock it and on a cold wet rainy day it is a useful place for trampers to wait for transportation. 

Start of the Andrews Valley track, next to the Mt White Road

Pole Beech at the start of Andrews Valley Track

The Andrews Valley Track starts with an initial steep uphillclimb to gain altitude before turning into a long gentle sidle along the side of the hils to Hallelujah Flat 2 hours away. The track is easy to follow as it is wide, well marked and used by a great many people so it is difficult to loose. 

Manuka scrub lining sides of Andrews Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Andrews Valley Track, this is about 1.5 hours in from the Mt White Road

It would be difficult to get lost following this track, but incredibly, people have come to grief in this valley before. Personally, I found the going fine, the track sidles in a band about a hundred metres up and down for most of the way, not too strenuous.

Andrews Valley Track: A Wren that came to check me out

If you did a right turn and walked off the track I can see how you could get lost, as it is quite thick but other wise....?

There are several side streams coming down off the unnamed range of mountains along the track so there are multiple places where you can resupply with water. There are no stock in this valley so you are able to use the water from all of the streams and rivers. I would probably still treat the water as there are wild deer and pigs in this locale. 



One of the side streams crossing the Andrews Valley Track....good to drink!

There are some areas of large, mature Red Beech but most of the forest is Mountain Beech or Silver Beech trees. All of these will be 200-30 years old at least while some might be 500 years old....as with all beech forest the understory is usually sparse. 

Mature red beech trees, Andrews Valley Track, Arthur's Pass National Park

After 2-3 hours you drop down to the side of the Andrews River, during a dry summer it is possible to wade up the Andrews River Gorge and save about an hour off the trip. Only possible if the flow is very low as there are a couple of compulsory crossings of the river required going this way. 

The start of the river flats on Hallelujah Flats (October 2020)

A wet Andrews River, Andrews Valley, Arthurs Pass NP

There are some scratch campsites at the western end of Hallelujah Flats just before you start the climb back to Andrews Shelter. There is space here for at least a dozen tents both in the tree line and along the banks of the river. No toilets so dispose of your waste responsibly and water is from the Andrews Stream. 

Scratch campsites at the western end of Hallelujah Flats (October 2020)

I eventually made it to Hallelujah Flat, aptly named I thought ( I certainly said "Hallelujah" when I saw them!!!!). These flats extend for about 2-3 km's with the track following close to Andrews Stream for most of the way. The track is easy to follow, it obviously sees a lot of use.

At the beginning of Hallelujah Flats, Andrews River Valley: Castle Hill in the distance

Map: Hallelujah Flats and Casey Saddle, Arthur's Pass NP

Hallelujah Flat is an excellent place to camp, there is a lot of flat land, the water is clean (no domestic animal access in the valley) and there is a bit of firewood available. The best spots are at either end of the flat so try to camp in one of the patches of bush with a slight incline so you don't get inundated if it rains during the night.

On the western edge of Hallelujah Flat (October 2020)

View out over Andrews Valley (October 2020)

View back down Andrews Valley, Casey-Binser Route, Arthur's Pass NP

The flats took nearly an hour to traverse after which I stopped for a soggy lunch huddled under some beech trees at the eastern end! Nothing says New Zealand tramping more than a cold, wet lunch huddled under a tree with the smell of wet beech up your nose. 

I got the cooker out and boiled a brew as I was a bit cold. There is little to stop the sometimes savage winds blowing across this valley so take your comfort where you can find it.  

After about 20 minutes I set off once again...

My Hallelujah Flat lunch spot from 2012 (October 2020)

It had been drizzling for most of the day but this was the point that the rain started really coming down so I packed my camera away. Several of the photos from this point onwards are from a trip I took along this route in October 2020.....

Heading over Casey Saddle on the way to Casey Hut, Arthur's Pass NP

Casey Saddle, the Casey Saddle Track sidles along the spur to the right (Oct 2020)

Boardwalk crosses Casey Saddle, Arthurs Pass NP (October 2020)

Past Casey Saddle you need to ford Surprise and Trinity Streams which will be impassible in heavy rain. As it was they were right on the edge of safety for me a solo crossing.  If I had come through an hour or so later I probably would not have been able to cross as the water levels were rising quickly with all the rain. 

Dropping down into Surprise and Trinity Streams

Crossing Trinity Stream enroute to Casey Hut (Oct 2020)

The last 2 hours are a climb up and over a ridge, the track is a bit hard to locate as you come out of Surprise Stream look for the over sized orange triangle in the forest. The climb was slow and painful...the track was becoming a minor stream and there were plenty of roots and mud to slip on.

Andrews Valley Track heads up the side of Mt Brown (October 2020)

Andrews Valley Track: muddy in places heading for Casey Hut (Oct 2020)

Andrews Valley Track: Ancient rock fall near Pt. 890 (October 2020)

Andrews Valley Track: Rest spot at an unnamed stream near Pt. 869

Andrews Valley Track: open forest near Pt. 869 (October 2020)

Once over the ridge it was a long slow descent in the rain down to the river flat Casey Hut is located on. Take your time as the track is that slick South Island glacial clay...easy to take a tumble when you loose traction and slip over.

Andrews Valley Track: descent down to Casey Stream (Oct 2020)

On the river flats at Casey Stream (October 2020)

I finally made it to Casey Hut about 7 pm, just as it was starting to get dark...it was cutting it far to fine athough i did have a tent so could have stopped in the forest if required. There were only two other hut occupants so there was plenty of room in this 18 bunk hut. It was a real pleasure to arrive and find an enormous fire blazing in the wood burner...tea and a meal was the order of the day!!!

Note: Casey Hut burnt to the ground in late 2015. The site of the old hut is now a backcountry campsite. Currently you will find a toilet and the old woodshed, water is from the nearby stream. 

Burnt out Casey Hut, 2016  from the TVNZ website

There is a new Casey Hut located another 30 minutes along the Poulter River Track. Look for the large orange triangle on the eastern edge of the old Casey Hut clearing and follow it around to the new hut. 

Start of the marked track to Casey Hut II (October 2020)

Map: Casey Hut locations (red is old hut site, blue is new hut site)

The new Casey Hut II (2020)

Casey Hut is magnificent, it is one of the "Lockwood/Fraemohs" style huts popular with the NZFS in the early 1980's, others included Hamilton Hut, Hope Kiwi, Hawdon Mark I, Edwards and Goat Pass. I love these huts with all that buttery golden varnished wood. 

The interior shots of the old Casey Hut shown below are from the Tramping New Zealand website.

Interior of Casey Hut showing bench area

Bunk room in old Casey Hut, Arthur's Pass NP

The awesome firebox in Casey Hut, Arthur's Pass NP

I shared the hut that night with two Kiwi women who had come in from Andrews Shelter a couple of hours before me. They were on their way up valley to Lake Minchin but unfortunately the heavy rain scuttled their plans as Casey Stream was a swirling vortex of death in the morning. It hosed with rain overnight from 7 pm right through to noon the next day.

The track to the Upper Poulter Valley starts at the old Casey Hut site

View of  Upper Poulter Valley from the old Casey Hut site (October 2020)

I had a meal of instant mash and corned beef fried into patties...oh man it was good after a long hard day of tramping. After that it was reading and copious brews before a well deserved sleep.

I had a whole bunk room to myself that night....luxury!!!

Day Two: Casey Hut to Pete's Stream; 10 kms. 3-4 hours

I woke at around 8 am then stayed in the hut all morning eating, reading and drinking tea as the weather was terrible. It was forecast to clear in the late afternoon...this partially happened..it was still drizzling but the worst weather had passed.

Casey Hut, Poulter valley, Arthur s Pass National Park... morning of day two

The ladies went up the valley to check Casey Stream but came back as it was flowing so strong it was leaping out of the river bed. No trip to Poulter Hut was happening for a day or two...Casey Hut is fantastic...it is well placed at a crossroads between the Andrews and Poulter Valleys and is well used by trampers, anglers, hunters and MTB riders.

Side view of Casey Hut in 2015, From the Arthur's Pass website

The weather cleared in the afternoon so I packed up and started down the valley...I started walking at 2 pm. There were light showers on and off as progress was made down the Poulter Valley over the rest of the afternoon. It was quite a hike, about 12km's and took about 3-4 hours to reach the scratch camp sites near Pete's Stream.

Some of the side streams en route were running high but none of them were at danger levels.

Poulter Valley: walking through the Red Beech trees near Casey Hut

Because of the rain I took few photos, my camera is not waterproof so I was concerned about water damaging it. I usually hauled it out temporarily when I stopped for a drink or a snack break.

Poulter Valley: setting off down the river flats near Casey Hut

The following photos are from my 2020 tramp of the Andrews-Binser Circuit after the new Casey Hut was opened. I had a waterproof camera and much better weather in October 2020 so I was able to fully document the track...

Poulter River Track: on the track near Pt. 657 heading for Rabbit Flat

Poulter River Track: one of several fords along the track (October 2020)

Poulter River Track:the border of Arthurs Pass NP and Mt White Station (October 2020)

Poulter River Track: View of Mt Binser from near Turnbull Stream (October 2020)

Pete's Stream, Mt Binser and distant Binser Saddle

Map: Poulter Valley...the long slog from Casey Hut, Arthur's Pass NP

View of  Binser Saddle from down on the Poulter River Track Scott Condron

There are two significant streams to cross: Mt Brown and Pete Stream's. I had no problems crossing them but they could be a problem if it was raining hard, bear this in mind when planning a trip up the Poulter Valley.  

Mt Brown Creek, Pt. 1596, Poulter Valley (October 2020)

Pete's Stream and the river terraces (October 2020)

Note that there are some nice camping spots on the true left of Pete's Stream just before the ford over the river. They are on a river terrace about 3 meters higher than the river and are tucked into the side of another river terrace with some small Beech Trees to shelter them. These are the best of the many possible camping sites in this locale...

Campsites on the true left of Petes Stream... (October 2020)

My plan was to camp before Binser Saddle so a camp was selected on the river terraces on the true right of Pete Stream, around 6.30 pm. Pete Stream is the last reliable water point between here and Andrews Shelter, so fill up before you start the climb.

Poulter Valley: misting rain over the Poulter River from the terraces above Pete's Stream

There are a couple of scratch spots on the second terrace down at the northern end under some small Beech Trees. There are also sites in the Matagouri on the third terrace where you can pitch your tent, well protected from the wind. It was a good place to camp as I had an excellent view up the valley from the vestibule of my tent.

 I stopped here as it was at least another 3-4 hours to get back to the car and I didn't fancy walking on an unfamiliar track in the dark. Also...I was bloody tired after the previous days exertions so yeah....

I set up my tent on the second terrace above Pete's Stream

I was frankly knackered by the time I had my tent up and ready to go in the semi darkness. After a couple of brews and some ramen and tuna I was feeling much better.  It was too wet to stand outside cooking so I just lit up in the tent vestibule.

Me inside my tent on the terraces above Pete's Stream, Poulter Valley

I heard some distant thunder and I had light rain and snow falling during the night but nothing to major...after all that walking I had an excellent nights sleep.

Day three: Pete Stream to Andrews Shelter; 10 kms, 4 hours

I was surprised to wake on the last day and see quite a lot of snow on the trees towards Binser Saddle, but apart from the snow coating the trees it was a nice day; clear, warm and the sun eventually came out.

Pete Stream, Poulter Valley from near my camp site, morning day three

When you look at a map of Binser Saddle it doesn't look that bad but it is actually quite steep on both sides of the saddle. You are either ascending or descending for the next 3-4 hours.

Map: Pete's Stream to Binser Saddle the red cross is my camp-site on day two.

 After a quick breakfast and after packing up I set out to cross Binser Saddle around 7.30 am, it was 2 hours to the top and 1.5 hour down the other side. I was surprised by how far it was, the track sidles up and down through the forest for quite a way but only has 600m of height gain over 6-7 km. 

The start of Binser Saddle Track is moderate...(October 2020)

You are in Beech forest for much of the Binser Saddle Track (Oct 2020)

Binser Saddle Track, heading to the saddle...Arthur's Pass NP

The track to the top is steep in places and a bit long, the track condition on the Poulter Valley side of the saddle is good. There are no reliable water sources along this section of the track so make sure you resupply before starting the climb. 

Jon resting half way to Binser Saddle, Arthur's Pass National Park



Binser Saddle Track, looking back downhill towards the Poulter Valley

Lower down you are travelling through areas of regenerating beech, kanuka and manuka...there is also a bit of Pole Beech so I'm thinking it is regenerating forest. There are also a few stands of large red beech trees as you get closer to the saddle itself.



Nearing the top of Binser Saddle, Arthur's Pass National Park

Near the summit there were patches of old growth forest with some sizable trees and also a small amount of snow on the ground. There is a small seasonal stream about 200 meters from the saddle, this is the only water supply on the whole track.

Snow on trees, Binser Saddle Track

Snow on the tree tops near Binser Saddle, Arthur's Pass National Park

Binser Saddle Track just before the saddle, the stream is near here

There is a beautiful clearing at the top of the saddle which would be an ideal place to camp. It had about 5 cm's of snow on it as I passed, but you could see the potential there. I would like to come back and stay up here but the lack of a trusted water supply puts me off. 

Binser Saddle Track: the seasonal stream near Binser Saddle

This is actually Binser Saddle on the Binser Saddle Track (October 2020)

Binser Saddle Track: the clearings near the saddle (October 2020)

I stopped at the clearing on top of Binser Saddle for a 10 minute snack break before continuing on my way. There are great spots tucked under the tree branches where you can get out of the elements and have a rest. 

Map: Binser Saddle to Andrews Shelter, last 30 minutes is on Mt White Road

Binser Saddle Track: heading down to the Waimakiriri River flats

Binser Saddle Track: a stream near Pt. 830 (October 2020)

In Pole Beech on the Waimakiriri side of the Binser Saddle Track (October 2020)

Half way down the other side of the saddle was an excellent view of the Mt White bridge area and the Waimakiriri River Valley. As you can see the weather was great on the last day with sun and light winds...I actually got a bit too hot as the day wore on.

View from the high point on Binser Saddle, down towards Mt White road, Waimakiriri River

The condition of the track from this point down to the Waimakiriri River flats is very poor. It is steep & rutted with a lot of wind fall, it really needs some TLC from DOC. It took me nearly an hour and a half to cover about 2 kms of ground.

Steep, rough track on the Binser Saddle Track (October 2020)

Binser Saddle Track: views of the Waimakiriri River Flats (October 2020)

Binser Saddle Track: On the last 500 meters to Mt White Station (October 2020)

The Waimakiriri end of the Binser Saddle Track (October 2020)

Binser Saddle from Mt White road, Arthur's Pass National Park

Eventually I made it to flat ground. There was the matter of a 4 km walk back to the car on the Mt White Station road. I found this to be the most difficult part of the trip because I was really tired by this point. 

Next time, I would be tempted to park my car at the base of Binser Saddle and then walk back to the Andrew Shelter start point, to save this walk at the end. You just need to be able to ford Lower Farm Creek which is not always easy to do...

Binser Saddle, doesn't look so bad....nek minit!

Binser Saddle is the V notch in the centre of the photo above, you sidle through the forest and then work your way down the long ridge running left to right.

Overall a good trip, enjoyable even with the rain. I made a rookie mistake and started out with a three day tramp, really I should have worked my way up to a three day trip because I was seriously unfit. I had too much gear and gear that was too heavy....change is required... 

I think next time I would start at the Binser Saddle end of the track and walk out through Andrews Valley. This trip rates a 4 out of 5 on the Jon Moake Tramp-o-meter....

Access: From off SH 73 drive along Mt White Road to Andrews Valley entrance near Andrews Shelter, other exit is at base of Binser Saddle 4 kms along Mt White Station Road
Track Times: 6-7 hours to Casey Campsite, 5 hours to Pete's Stream, 4-5 hours to Andrews Shelter via Binser Saddle
Hut Details: Andrews Shelter, no bunks, no heating, toilet: DOC campsite on old Casey Hut location, toilet and wood shed, water from nearby stream: Scratch campsite on the river terrace overlooking Pete's Stream
Miscellaneous: All streams on this circuit are un-bridged and may be impossible to cross in a storm, long periods traversing flats which are prone to windy conditions.

The fate of Casey Hut:

The Original Casey Hut burnt to the ground in 2015 and there was no hut along this route up until 2020. DOC Canterbury simply did not have the funds required to build a replacement so the original hut site was left as a backcountry camp site up to 2020. 

 

Casey Hut No. 1, Arthur's Pass NP circa 2014....

Casey Hut No. 1 was a Lockwood kit set design from the 1970's so lots of varnished wood inside...one of my favorite types of back-country hut. Unfortunately all that varnish means these go up like a fire starter if sparks or embers get loose inside.

Another photo of the old Casey Hut No. 1, Poulter Valley

The consensus at the time was someone forgot to shut the firebox fully or they left hot ashes in a bucket which tipped over and caught fire.

The Casey Hut site after the fire which destroyed the hut

Finally in 2019 it was announced that a new hut was going to be built in the area . The money for the new hut ($250 000) was a donation from some local trampers with a long association with the area. 

I have discovered that the two donors are Mr Robert Birks and Dr Sharon English...in conjunction with the Nature Heritage Fund, DOC and the FMC. From myself and others who love Arthur's Pass NP and the Poulter River in particular I would like to thank you whole heartedly. I appreciate what you have done...all I can say is you are bloody legends!!!

The beers/wines are on Jon if I ever run into you somewhere......

The new hut is a 12 person structure with a large veranda and deck around the outside of the hut and large capacity water storage.  The new hut is about 800 meters east of the old location on a slight rise with excellent views of the Poulter River valley and closer to the Poulter River.

Map: Casey Hut II, (red is old hut site, blue is new hut site)

I will be visiting the hut when it is finished as I have long wanted to have another go at the Casey-Binser Circuit Track and I would love to bag the six huts further up the Poulter Valley. These are Poulter Biv, Worsley Hut, Poulter Hut, Minchin Biv, Trust/Poulter Hut and Ranger Biv. There is an additional hut down valley on the true left of the Poulter River called Turnbull Biv but I have previously visited this hut.

Concept drawing of the new Casey Hut in Arthur's Pass NP...

I look forward to the new hut appearing on the next iteration of the New Zealand topomap series...

Here are some photos of the hut under construction...

State of the new Casey Hut in May 2020...

State of the new Casey Hut in May 2020...

Nice veranda on that hut...it just needs a couple of benches to make it complete!

The end of the rebuilding saga....

Woohoo...the new Casey Hut was officially opened on the 22nd August 2020. It will be great to once again have a hut halfway around the Casey-Binser Route. I have been anticipating this for some time and will absolutely be planning a trip to the area.

It looks like a really nice hut and with its new position looking up and down the Poulter River is in a prime location.

Have a look at my trip to the new hut and along the Andrews-Casey-Binser Route in October 2020. 

Tramping literature: Wilderness magazine

One of my favourite go to sources of information is Wilderness magazine. I highly recommend this as essential reading for all New Zealand outdoor enthusiasts.

This should be the bible for any tramper, mountain biker, climber and kayaker. Large format with a wealth of trip plans, gear reviews and articles about current concerns in the outdoor community. Generally available from all public libraries, or subscribe so you never miss an issue.

 Also see www.wildernessmag.co.nz

Historic Tramps: Into the Kaimanawa Range

A trip into the southern Kaimanawa Range...

Way back in 1987 I visited the Kaimanawa Forest Park as a part of an Army exercise I was a part of at the Army Training Ground (ATG) in Waiouru. During my basic training my unit was dropped by truck on the eastern boundary of the ATG and we had to walk out to the Desert Road over five days.

Mt Ruapehu from inside the Waiouru ATG

We started at the end of  Moawhanga Bridge Road in the Stowman Range where we walked along the range before dropping down and staying the night in the vicinity of Bobs Hut. This was an old musterers hut just inside the ATG used by the farmer who managed the land in the southern part of the training area. We weren't allowed inside the hut itself as this was officer country and the unit HQ.....we slept in the forest and tall tussock outside.

 

Bobs Hut on the Upper Wairakatoke Stream from ATVrider.com

Map: Waiouru ATG, near Bobs Hut

Sleeping in tussock is an interesting experience...it keeps you warm and reasonably dry but you do get uncomfortable sleeping on the hump of roots at the base of each tussock. You can make a nice little rats nest under the tussock with just your head and shoulders outside so you can observe, brew up or cook some food. 

Nice!!! 

It is best done with a bivy bag or cover for your sleeping bag to keep it dry and free of bugs...give it a go sometime.

Typical terrain in the northwest of the Waiouru ATG, from Zoomology.com

Over the next two days we patrolled along a series of old tank tracks to the remote north eastern edge of the Waiouru ATG. This is an area of low rolling hills and tussock lands seldom visited by anyone including the Army and criss-crossed with a number of creeks, streams and rivers. There are a series of swamps in the low points but we tended to walk around the worst of them on the low sides of the surrounding hills. 

Tussock valleys in the north east of the Waiouru ATG, from Zoomology.com

Late 1980's early 1990's Kiwi soldier patrolling...

This corner of the ATG is home to the famous Kaimanawa wild horses. We often used to see the horses in the distance when in this corner of the ATG.  Beautiful animals...they are the descendants of escaped farm animals which have lived in this area since the late 1880's. They are super cautious about humans and will try to stay at least a kilometer away from you at all times. 

Map: Waiouru ATG, Motumatai Range

At one stage the herd was as big as 1500 horses but it has been reduced now to around 100 as they are hellishly destructive on the environment. Some were rounded up and sold or given away but unfortunately some were also put down. There is a group dedicated to maintaining the breed called Kaimanawa Heritage Horses who work with DOC and the Army to manage the herd.

Some of the wild Kaimanawa horses from Kaimanawa Heritage horse site

We conducted some live fire exercises around the Motumatai Range from dug in positions on Pt. 1470 and Pt.1454.  These are a couple of flat peaks here which dominate the surrounding area...perfect for a live fire exercise!!! 

View from the Motumatai Range, Waiouru ATG

Then over the next two days we moved along the northern edge of the ATG using the well known Kaimanawa Forest Park Walkway and Southern Access Corridor on both sides of the ATG boundary. 

DOC sign along the Southern Access Corridor, Kaimanawa Ranges from Geocache.com

On the border of Waiouru ATG and the Kaimanawas's

Army tarp set up in bush in the Kaimanawa Mountains

The Southern Access Corridor is a right of way open to civilians so they can access the southern Kaimanawa Range from the Desert Road. This area is more mountainous and covered with bush, forest with open tops along the dry crests of the ridges. It is mostly on the northern side of the ATG boundary but does cross into ATG land at a couple of spots. 

Map: Waiouru ATG,  Southern Access Corridor

Scattered bush pockets along the Southern Access Corridor

The walk along the Kaimanawa Range is one of the classic tramping trips in the North Island with views out over the ATG, north to Lake Taupo and the volcanoes of the Central Plateau. There are few huts along this track and camping is discouraged near the ATG border as the area is sometimes used by the Army for live fire exercises. Most tramping parties will walk the length of the Access Corridor over one day...it is about 20 kilometers or 5-6 hours walking. 

Southern Access Corridor: the threat is very real, from Geocache.com

Approaching the Desert Highway along the Southern Access Corridor

We eventually arrived out on the Desert Highway near the Rangipo Desert where we were collected and trucked back the Waiouru Army Camp for a well deserved shower and some hot food. I actually enjoyed this Army exercise a lot as it was some beautiful terrain we were covering. We also got to fire off a pile of live ordinance which is always a lot of fun....

The Kaimanawa Range from the opposite side of Desert Road

The Desert Road near the northern edge of the Waiouru ATG

The Rangipo Desert backs onto Tongariro National Park and is a massive expanse of sand, stone, rocks and ash left over from when the Central Plateau volcanoes were more active. I did one exercise in the area and it is really like a desert as the poor volcanic soils will not support much life. It is not utilised much anymore as it is such a delicate environment but it is still part of the Army Training Area.

View towards Waiouru ATG across the Rangipo Desert

This was the first of three trips I made into this area the second was a hunting trip with some of my Army buddies and the third another Army exercise but I might cover that trip separately one day. I can recommend the Kaimanawa's to you as a trip destination...it is good classic back to basics tramping terrain. 

Cheers.....

Historic Tramps: Great Walks of my past....

Historic tramps from pre 2012...the Great Walks

I am writing this post in 2021 at the end of my three decade journey to walk all of the Great Walk tracks we have here in New Zealand. I have been steadily working through the South Island Great Walk tramps since 2012 and am off to tramp the last (Kepler Track) in late March 2021.

The Paparoa Track was my penultimate Great Walk in February 2021.....

I actually tramped/rafted four of the Great Walks prior to 2012 which was when I started back into tramping so I thought it might be useful to write a post about those historic trips.

North Island Great Walk Tracks...

I was in the New Zealand Army from 1988 to 1992 and spent nearly two years of that time at the School of Signals either long term or for short 2-3 month courses. As anyone who has ever been to Waiouru will attest there is bugger all to do there. 

Waiouru is a remote Central North Island settlement...

We had to make our own fun which usually meant PT or drinking but we did do a bit of tramping from time to time. 

 

The main drag through Waiouru itself.....yep!!!

This is when I walked or rafted all three of the existing Great Walks in the North Island.

BTW: the School of Signals moved to Linton Military Camp just outside Palmerston North so todays Sig's at least have a moderate sized city to call home.

The Tongariro Northern Circuit: 1988(?)

I walked the Tongariro Northern Circuit in the late 1980's while stationed at Waiouru Training Camp. A group of us walked the track as part of a supposed communications exercise we were running but really one of the Sergeants was a hunter/tramper and he wanted to have a go at the track!!!

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

We got to do a lot of good stuff in the Army because an Officer or Sergeant had a hankering for some outdoor adventuring...like the time we walked overland from St Arnaud to Hanmer or the time we went fishing for a couple of days in the Marlborough Sounds, but those are other stories...

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

The Circuit back then was very, very quiet...it was early autumn and the weather was getting colder but mostly the track was hardly known outside Kiwi tramping circles. I'm not joking we saw less than 10 people the whole time and that included the day we walked over what is now the Tongariro Crossing. We saw five (...yes 5...) people the day we walked the Crossing....in 2019 you might be sharing the track with up to a 1000 or more on any given day. 

Tama Lake, On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

The huts were old but serviceable, the tracks 'rough as' in places but the scenery was the same as you see today. I remember being thirsty most of the time...it is hot on the Circuit when the sun is out and good water sources are scarce...only at the huts. 

Lunar landscape on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

I took my camera with me on this trip, I had black and white film in my camera so that is why the pictures are black and white. I didn't take many photos, maybe the film was almost finished...I cant remember all these years later. I think black and white is the right medium for this track...it brings out the beautiful starkness of that volcanic terrain. 

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

All of this track is beautiful in its own kind of way but my favorite section was on the eastern side of the mountains with that view out over the Desert Road. You had a bit of grass and some trees to break up the volcanic rock.

I really like the weird and wonderful forms a volcanic field holds...sharp edges and weird shapes. You can see why they practice Mars landings in volcanic areas. 

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

It is a magnificent and unique track but I don't know if I would call it a Great Walk. It has a bit too much rock, sand and dust for my liking, I prefer thick forest really. That said I recommend it readily when people ask me about good tramping tracks in the North Island.

 I'd like to walk the Tongariro Crossing again but I think I would hate the damn crowds it now attracts. Maybe when I get to finishing the Te Araroa Trail..it goes right over the middle section of this track.

8/10 on the Jon tramp-o-meter.

Lake Waikaremoana Track (1989...?)

This was the first 'civilian' tramp I went on....it was while I was in the military but was not an Army organised trip. I was in Waiouru for three months doing some course or another.  A group of us decided to go tramp around Lake Waikaremoana one long weekend because one of the guys was from up that way and told us how cool it was. 

Korokoro Falls, Lake Waikaremoana Track: Image from New Zealand.com website

We walked the track anti clock wise so the Panekire Bluffs were at the end of the trip. Memories of the time are of the feeling of dark permanence in Te Urewera....that forest is ancient and dense, I wouldn't be surprised to see a Moa walk out of the bush and cackle "....how are yer maaateeee...!!!".

You can stand on the high bluffs around the lake and see nothing but bush and forest out to the horizon. I imagine that is what all of New Zealand looked like before humans arrived. 

Panekire Bluffs: Image from DOC website

The quality of the track was excellent and while some of the huts were older they were obviously well loved. It was a magnificent experience and I'm just sorry more people don't have the time to go there. Getting to the lake is the problem it is remote and the approach roads are gravel so long, hot and dusty.

While access is a curse it is is also a salvation...you have to REALLY WANT TO VISIT this locale so your normal tourism hordes are absent even now.

The modern Waiopaoa Hut: Image from Maipo website

I have heard that the track/huts have deteriorated since it was handed back to the local Iwi...I cannot comment on this but if true it is a real shame. This would be the perfect place for a genuine Maori take on the outdoors and show the deep relationship between the people and the land in Aotearoa.  

Typical North Island forest along the Lake Waikaremoana Track:Image from Shoesyourpath website

This is by far one of the finest tramping trips I have ever been on...in my top five of all time.

It is absolutely a 'Great Walk'...go walk it folks!!!

+10/10 on the Jon Tramp-o-meter.

Wanganui River Journey (1989)

Another hair brained scheme....same Army course (we also went and tramped in the Kaimanawa's around this time...). We had a free weekend so we borrowed some gear from the Outdoor Pursuits Centre at Waiouru and went and rafted down the Wanganui River. We went into the river up near National Park and came out just south of Jerusalem a couple of days later.

Early section of the Wanganui River: Image from Travel Alphas web site

The Wanganui River is sacred to the local Iwi, there are many Pa sites along the river as this was a major locus of Maori settlement right through history. It also featured heavily in the New Zealand Wars as it has always been a transportation link to the remoter parts of the Central North Island. 

Drawing of a typical fortified Maori village or Pa

Today most people would kayak or canoe the Wanganui as those craft are more suitable but back in those days most journeys were done by raft. This wasn't a Great Journey as they now style it, just a trip adventurous outdoor nutter's had a bash at.

Canadian style canoe on the Wanganui river

The only people we saw were a group of hunters at John Coull Hut and a few jet boats tooling up and down the river. Apart from them we had the river to ourselves...

The modern iteration of John Coull Hut: Image from DOC website

It was very peaceful drifting down the river, exploring the caves, side streams and points of interest and camping at the end of each day.  I remember us talking about going to the Bridge to Nowhere but not having the time to actually do so. I also remember the dozens of cans of beers ( I had two dozen just for myself...) we each took with us as vital supplies, empties rolling around in the bottom of the raft. 

The famous Bridge to Nowhere, Wanaganui River, Central North Island

When it is dry the Wanganui River is gentle and deep with the occasional grade 1-2 rapid, but if it rains in the headwaters it can become an angry raging beast. We had three days of beautiful sunny weather so we saw the nice face. You don't want to be down there when the bad face comes out.

Flood in the Upper Wanganui River

It is wild, remote wilderness along most of the river...dense bush, high bluffs and deep dank side streams cutting down through the mudstone. What it reminded me of was the movie Deliverance...at any moment I expected a couple of dungaree clad good ole boys to come on down out t'holla and say "....yer gotta purty mouth...."

The verdant Wanganui River Valley: Image from Visit Ruapehu website

I know this has become a bit of a tourist trap with the Te Araroa walkers and massed organised trips down the river but I think every Kiwi should add it to their agenda. If I was to do the journey again I would walk up to the Bridge to Nowhere and stop at Jerusalem and the Maori Village (Tieke Kainga) as they are an integral part of the story of this river.

Easy graded rapids on the Wanganui river: Image from Travel Alphas web site

This is the only Great Walk on a river so straight away it is unique, the area is deeply steeped in history and has a wild remote feeling you do not find in many places anymore. You would not look out of place dressed in flax and poling a waka down this river it has that ancient kind of feeling. It is definitely worth a visit...add it to the bucket list.

BTW: the name of the river is spelt both Wanganui and more correctly Whanganui...the local Iwi use both names for their Awa.

8/10 on the Jon Tramp-o-meter (only because I do not like the water that much)...

South Island Great Walk Tramps...

My permanent posting while in the Army was in Christchurch first at Addington Barracks (...great place...) and later at Burnham Army Camp. We got to walk the Heaphy Track after one of the exercises we held near Karamea...

Heaphy Track: 1990(?)

 I was stationed at Addington Barracks, Christchurch from 1988-1990...the unit I belonged to was 3 Signals Squadron. We used to frequently ticky-tour around the country doing military exercises usually on the West Coast, near the Southern Alps or around Tekapo. The big multi battalion exercise we did in 1990 was up near Karamea close to the West Coast end of the Heaphy Track.

Gouland Downs swing bridge:  Image from Heaphy Track.com website

One of the many streams crossing Gouland Downs:Image from Heaphy Track.com website

Towards the end of the exercise we were all sitting around waiting to go back to Christchurch when a message went around asking if anyone wanted to walk the Heaphy Track. Obviously we all said yes so the next day several groups of us were flown by helicopter to points along the track by the New Zealand Airforce.

My group consisting of myself and the five other Signalers and about five infantry guys (hard to recall but you could get a 10 man squad on an Iroquois helicopter...) got dropped at Perry Saddle Hut. We walked back to Kohaihai from there...

Bridge over the Kohaihai River:Image from Heaphy Track.com website

I loved it.....what I remember is the varied terrain: thick native bush, the expansive tussock covered Gouland Downs, steep descents into verdant river valleys and that awesome walk through the Nikau Palm groves from the Heaphy River to Kohaihai.

We mostly had the huts to ourselves with a few Kiwi trampers chucked into the mix....no European tourist crowds in those days. We were eating Army ration packs and someone managed to slip a bottle of Rum into their pack. We had one day of torrential rain but the other three days were beautiful as only the north west of the South Island can be.

I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. 

View down to Heaphy River: Image from Jack Austin website

Later in the early 1990's my girlfriend and I walked into Perry Saddle Hut from the road end near Brown Hut. We stayed for the one night and then walked back out again as she was not too keen on this tramping lark and did not want to walk the whole track.

Start of Heaphy Track near Brown Hut: Image from Heaphy Track.com website

Is the Heaphy a "Great Walk"....by damn...yes it is...my favorite section is between Lewis Hut and Heaphy Hut, as you wind down to the river and coast. My favorite hut was the old Heaphy Hut because we had such a good night there. We made a massive bonfire on the beach and then went back to the hut and played cards and drank rum laced tea and coffee for about four hours.

Everyone should walk this track, I know it has transport difficulties (300+ km's separate the two ends...) but the problems are worth over coming for the fun you will have on the track.

Heaphy Track, West Coast Section: Image from Jack Austin website

I am absolutely going to walk this track again someday..... soon I hope!

+10/10 on the Jon tramp-o-meter. 

I've done a couple of other historic tramps over the years and will be writing a couple of posts about them eventually. For trip reports on the other Great Walks like the Milford, Routeburn and Rakuira have a search of the blog from 2016 onwards...