Thursday, 29 October 2020

Casey-Binser Saddle Circuit, 23-25th October 2020; Day 1 & 2

 A visit to the new Casey Hut.....

Over Labour Weekend I took myself off for a three day trip around the Andrews-Casey-Binser circuit in Arthurs Pass National Park. My main aim was to visit the new Casey Hut opened in August of this year but also to do some hut bagging in the Poulter Valley. There are nine huts in the greater Poulter Valley most of them upstream from Casey Stream. 


Looking to the Upper Poulter Valley from the Poulter Valley Track


Because it was a long weekend I took my camping gear with me as I intended to camp at least one of the days. In the event I stayed two nights at Casey Hut II and never even removed my tent from my pack. I was lucky though...on the Saturday night there were nearly 50 people around the 12 bunk hut with 20 inside, four on the veranda and over 15 tents set up around us. 

Super busy.....

The tent camp starts to build in front of Casey Hut II

I had a mixed bag of weather...perfect on Friday and Saturday and wet on the Sunday but it did not dampen my enthusiasm at all. I had two hard 7+ hours days on the first and last days of the trip. The initial walk in via Andrews Valley and the massive walk down the Poulter Valley followed by that heinous climb over Binser Saddle were hard work!!!

I was thoroughly buggered by the time I got back to the car...

View of Binser Saddle from the Mt White Road

This was meant to be a four day trip but a strong wet front moving in over Sunday-Monday cut it short. I only had time for the main Casey-Binser Circuit and a short side trip to bag Turnbull Bivvy in Lochinvar Conservation Area on the true left of the Poulter River. A return trip to visit Poulter Hut etc. will be required some time in the near future...


Bad weather follows me down the Poulter Valley...

Turnbull Bivvy on the true left of the Poulter River


Anyway...less take up the action on Friday as I set off from the Andrews Shelter for the new Casey Hut...


On the Andrews Valley Track...

Day 1: Andrews Shelter to Casey Hut II

Due to an oncoming storm front I had to modify my plans a bit...initially I was going to visit the upper Poulter River to bag five huts there but this requires multiple river crossings. Not wanting to get marooned by flooded rivers I instead decided to just walk the Casey-Binser Route over three days. 


Carpark opposite Andrews Shelter, Arthurs Pass NP

Andrews Shelter, Arthurs Pass NP

I parked the Silver Surfer at the Andrews Shelter carpark on Mt White Road...from there I would walk into the Andrews Valley before continuing to the new Casey Hut. The start of the Andrews Valley Track is from the true left of Andrews Stream starting at the white road bridge over that river. 

Map: Andrews Shelter to Hallelujah Flats


Mt White Road heading to the start of Andrews Track


The road bridge over Andrews Stream, Arthurs Pass NP

Strangely there are no track signs at the start of the track....it is possible DOC are updating them as the times on the old signs are now off. Originally it took about 6-7 hours to walk to the old Casey Hut but the new hut is nearly another kilometer away adding at least 30 more minutes...


Start of the Andrews-Casey-Binser Route, Arthurs Pass NP


Initially the Andrews Valley Track follows the river but soon heads steeply uphill to intersect the 800 meter a.s.l line on a rough rutted track. Once at the 800 meter line you sidle along the side of the hills for about 2-2.5 hours heading for Hallelujah Flats.... 


Andrews Track...river flats before the big climb.....



The first part of Andrews Track is steep....


The predominant tree species along this section is Pole Beech but there is also Black and Silver Beech Trees as well. After the first climb the track is decent...wide and mostly free of debris...it looks like someone has given it a bit of a spruce up recently. 



In Pole Beech on Andrews Track, Arthurs Pass NP

...then Black Beech....

...before a return to the Pole Beech...

There are a few places where you climb into and out of side streams coming down the nearby range some of these are step but most are gentle dips in the terrain. 


Root ladder along the Andrews Stream Track

Sidle along the 800 asl line, Andrews Track


About an hour into the trip you arrive at an area of larger Beech trees in a relatively virgin area of the forest. Some of these are old as there are examples 1-2 meters around the trunk. There is a mixture of Red Beech and Mountain Beech here....


Red Beech on the Andrews Valley Track

Here is a photo of one of the many side stream's along the Andrews Valley Track. Most of these have some water running in them over Spring, Autumn and Winter but tend to be dry over the Summer. You can use this water but you should filter or treat it before use...


Andrews Valley Track...one of many side streams...

On the Andrews Valley Track, Arthurs Pass NP

I stopped for my first break after 1.5 hours and three kilometers along the track. Because I had to bring my camping gear I was using my Osprey Volt pack as my normal Atmos is too small to pack all the junk into. It is a decent pack but needed some adjustment as it kept slipping down my back so I sorted it out while resting.

The last time this pack had an outing was my trip on the Travers-Sabine Track back in 2018... Unfortunately my cancer diagnosis/treatment in 2018/2019 put paid to a couple of longer trips the pack was destined to be used on. I have some plans that will require its heavy load carrying abilities over the next couple of years...


My Osprey Volt 75l on the Andrews Valley Track...

Jon on the Andrews Valley Track in Arthurs Pass NP

Mixed forest along the Andrews Valley Track

After roughly 2 hours you arrive at the widest stream crossing on this section of the track...it should really have a name as it is about 30 meter wide and has several channels. It would pose problems in heavy rain...


Andrews Valley Track...the stream coming down from Pt. 1709


You climb over multiple spurs on the Andrews Valley Track


One past this stream it is approximately 30 minutes walk to the river terraces along Andrews Stream. It is a gradual descent from here right down to the bottom of the valley over about two kilometers. Eventually you arrive at Andrews Stream at the southern most end of Hallelujah Flat. The track will deposit you right next to the river...the first all season source of water along this track. 

Dropping down to Andrews Stream, Arthurs Pass NP

First view of Andrews Stream....

Andrews Stream, Arthurs Pass NP

Andrews Valley Track follows the river for a couple of kilometers


You follow the river for a while passing a number of small open glades. You could camp along here but there are much better campsites a little further along the Andrews Valley Track closer to Hallelujah Flat. 


Clearings along Andrews Stream, Arthurs Pass NP

Back into the forest along Andrews Stream...


Hallelujah Flat is a low flat grassland between Andrews Stream and Surprise Stream and is bordered by Mt Brown on the southern side and the Savannah Range to the north. It is approximately three kilometers long by 1-2 kilometers wide with Andrews Stream running down the middle of the valley. 


There are no huts in the valley, the old Hallelujah Biv was removed back in the mid 1990's due to poor condition. It is an attractive valley and camping is available over the whole area but especially at either end of the valley. When you first come off the Andrews Valley Track you will see several good camp sites scattered along the small glades next to the track. 


Campsite at the southern end of Hallelujah Flat, Arthurs Pass NP

Great forest campsites on Hallelujah Flat

A fire ring and wood supply, Hallelujah Flat campsite

Andrews Stream is a middling sized river...it usually has running water except in the longest and most dry summers. It is feed by snow melt off the surrounding ranges as well as rain water run off. 


Stream confluence at south end of Hallelujah Flat

Hallelujah Flat, Arthurs Pass NP

It will take you just over an hour to cross the full flats in this valley...easy walking for the most part on a distinct track well marked with snow poles. The track is next to the river for the first two kilometers then it gradually edges away as you get closer to Casey Saddle. 


Castle Hill from the Andrews Stream

View south from Hallelujah Flats, Arthurs Pass NP

On Hallelujah Flat heading for the Poulter Valley

There is not a lot of cover on Hallelujah Flats...just some low scrub none of which is taller than waist high. It is best to just put your head down and cover the ground so this is a great location to chuck on some tunes...



Northern end of Casey Saddle, Arthurs Pass NP

Distant Craigieburn Range from Casey Saddle


There is a scratch campsite tucked into a small area of Beech trees at the northern end of the Flats...it is easily big enough for 4-5 tents and would provide shelter from the winds which often howl across this open area. There is a fire ring with wood in the nearby forest...water is from a stream about 30 meters away...

This used to be the site for the Hallelujah Biv which was removed in the mid 1990's........I visited it many years ago on a trip to the area. 



Campsite at the old Hallelujah Bivouac site, Arthurs Pass NP


Snow poles mark the Andrews Valley Track

Last view of Hallelujah Flat from near Casey Saddle


Casey Saddle is about another kilometer from the edge of Hallelujah Flat and is reached after crossing several more flat open grassland areas. You need to cross the northern end of Andrews Stream several times..this is no problem as it is often dry. 

I stopped at this point for lunch as there was a nice breeze blowing to keep the sandflies away. I got the stove out and boiled myself a brew to have with my filled wraps and potato chips. The complete lunch as it were...



Castle Hill from near Casey Saddle, Arthurs Pass NP

Andrews Stream must be crossed at the end of Hallelujah flat

Casey Saddle with Castle Hill in the background

Mt Brown from near Casey Saddle, Arthurs Pass NP


Casey Saddle is actually marked by a section of boardwalk...it is wet and swampy at this end of the valley and without the boardwalk it would be a wet and muddy passage. This is the only section of boardwalk on the whole circuit though there are several places where it would be useful to avoid slogging through swamps. 

Map: Hallelujah Flats to the Poulter River


Boardwalk between Casey Saddle and Surprise Stream, Arthurs Pass NP


More boardwalk on Casey Saddle, Arthurs Pass NP

At the northern end of the Hallelujah Flat-Casey Saddle section you drop down into the Surprise Stream which comes off the flats. Initially you are walking through forest before following the track alongside the river for about 10 minutes.



Heading down to Surprise Stream from Casey Saddle

In Surprise Stream, Arthurs Pass NP

You need to cross Surprise Stream a number of times...this can be a problem in heavy rain as the river is prone to flooding. If you arrive and find the river up turn around and go back the way you have come. There is no alternate way to get around these river crossings. 


Surprise Stream, Arthurs Pass NP


Surprise Stream and Trinity Stream meet about 10 minutes along the track...again Trinity Stream must be crossed to continue. You are aiming for a marked track entrance which goes up the north-western flank of Mt Brown and sidles around to Casey Stream and the Poulter river. 


The ford is indistinct...if you strike the eroded river bank in the photos below you have gone too far...either cross the stream and find the track or go back about 50 meters and look for the crossing. The marked fording place is actually quite dangerous as the river is deep with high banks on both sides. Use it if the flow is low or look for a better crossing point... 



Ford over Trinity Stream, Arthurs Pass NP

....too far...you have missed the track to the Poulter Valley...


I didn't like the marked ford so I walked down river and crossed at a much better spot past the eroded bank. From there I could see several track markers in the low scrub and walked over to regain the Andrews Valley Track. 



Trinity/Surprise River crossing...look for snow poles...

Andrews Valley Track on the true right of Surprise Stream


The track back into the forest is marked with a large orange triangle...it heads up the side of Mt Brown and sidles high above the river to escape gorges lower down the Casey River. You can walk down Surprise Stream-Casey River when the river is low but do not go that way in heavy rain. There are a number of spots where you have to wade through pools...not the place to be if the river is rising. 




The track from Trinity Stream to the Poulter Valley

Flat track on the way to the Poulter Valley....

...then savage root ladder climbing....

The track past Surprise Stream is initially steep but evens out after a kilometer or so into a rough but mostly flat sidle track. There are some root ladders to climb and you need to climb over a bit of wind fall as the track needs a good tidy up...


The Andrews Valley Track sidles along Brown Hill...


There are many muddy areas of this section as the forest is swampy..this area could really use some boardwalk! Try to stay out of the worst of the mud...I stepped into what looked like a shallow puddle and it went up nearly to my knee. It stank and I was kicking off chunks of mud for the next hour...



Muddy section between Trinity Stream and Poulter Valley


Sidling along Andrews Valley Stream past Surprise Stream...

Ancient rock fall on the Andrews Valley Track near Pt.890

Rough track at the northern end of the Andrews Valley Track


On the Andrews Valley Track between Pt.890 and Pt.869


I arrived at a stream running down off Pt. 1489 after and hour or so...this is the half way point between Surprise Stream and the Casey River flats. This is the only good water source along this part of the track so fill up before continuing on...



The stream from Pt. 1489, Andrews Valley Track

Around 400 meters past the side stream you reach the apex of this part of the track and a series of open forest clearings around Pt. 869. This is the high point of the track and the rest of the track is a slow and painful descent down to the old Casey Hut site. 


Open forest near Pt.869, Andrews Valley Track

The Savannah Range from near Pt. 869, Andrews Valley Track

Distant view of Poulter Range from near Pt.869

The descent down towards Casey Stream is long, slow and incredibly tedious....it is steep, muddy climbing down a series of root ladders and slippery track. It is less than a kilometer to the bottom of the hill but took over an hour. I talked to others who came this way and they all agreed. 

It really, really sucks!!!!

You have already been walking for over 5 hours at this stage so it is something to be endured rather than enjoyed....


Open forest near Pt. 869, Andrews Valley Track

Start of the descent to the Casey Stream river flats...

First view of the Poulter Valley from the Andrews Valley Track


Look at that ridiculous track.....straight up and down the side of the hill. Switchback track sections would make this a much nicer track to walk and would stop erosion....no brainer really.



Descending steeply down to the old Casey Hut site....


Flat forest at the north-eastern end of the Andrews Valley Track

Poulter Range from near Casey Stream, Arthurs Pass NP


I got to the old Casey Hut site along the Casey Stream after 7 hours and 20 minutes...probably the longest days walking I have done in the past three years...I stopped for a well deserved break before heading around and into the Poulter Valley to the site of the new Casey Hut. 



Casey Stream campsite...location of the old Casey Hut (1969-2015)


Access to the Upper Poulter River starts at the old Casey Hut Site

The river flats along Casey Stream, Arthurs Pass NP


When it came time to build the new Casey Hut a decision was made to move it to a new location. It is now in the Poulter River Valley and on the other side of the low hill at the eastern edge of the Casey Campsite. A new connector track has been constructed along the side of Casey Stream which eventually joins the Poulter Valley Track. It is another 800 meters or 30 minutes of walking to get to the new hut. 


New connector track from Casey Stream to the Poulter Valley Track

Track to the new Casey Hut from the Casey Stream campsite

On the Poulter Valley 4 W/D track heading to Casey Hut II


There is an excellent view of the Upper Poulter Valley as you turn towards the hut. There are several good trip destinations up the valley including several huts, Lake Minchin and the Lake Minchin Track to Lake Sumner Forest Park. A trip location for another time...



View of the Upper Poulter River Valley, Arthurs Pass NP

On the Poulter Valley Track heading for Casey Hut II

Brown Hill from the Poulter Valley Track

I eventually arrived at Casey Hut II at around 4.30 pm after nearly 8 hours on track...as you can imagine I was mighty please to get there. The hut is in a good location tucked up on a river terrace with wide expansive views of the Poulter Valley. 

It has plenty of flat terrain around it for tents and the low hill to the rear of the hut protects it from the strong wind which often shoots down the valley. It is bordered to the rear by an area of mixed Beech forest with a lifetimes supply of wind fall trees and fallen branches. Apart from the numerous sandflies it is an excellent location. 


Casey Hut II, Arthurs Pass NP


Man that first cup of tea when I got to the hut was good....oh boy!!!!

At Casey Hut II:

The new Casey Hut was only opened in August of 2020 so it is les than three months old. It is a replacement hut for the original Casey Hut which burnt down way back in 2015 and had not as yet been replaced. This is common now....DOC is strapped for cash and they do not necessarily have the resources to replace damaged or destroyed infrastructure. 


The new Casey Hut (2020) in Arthurs Pass NP

There was a great deal of debate about wither a new hut was required in this location at all...the previous Casey Hut was seldom visited except over long weekends and the summer months and DOC was finding it hard to find the justification and funds to rebuild it. It took a lot of hard negotiation by the FMC, Nature Heritage Fund, tramping clubs and private individuals to convince them a new hut was required. 


The original Casey Hut (1969-2015) back in 2012

Plans were put in motion to move one of the other huts in this valley to the new location but then fate intervened. Two extremely generous donors Dr Sharon English and Mr Robert Birk donated $300 000 for a new hut. This was supported by additional funds from the NZ Nature Fund and the Department of Conservation who covered the cost of hiring builders to construct it. 

It is absolutely amazing to think that someone would donate this large amount of cash for a new backcountry hut especially considering that Robert Birk was the person who donated over $250 000 for the new Waiau Hut back in 2017. It is an incredible thing to do and they are both to be commended for this...I would like to personally thank you from myself and all the people who will use this hut over the next 50-60 years. 

You are legends...

Side view of Casey Hut II, Arthurs Pass NP

The views from the hut are awesome...most of the middle reaches of the Poulter Valley, the Poulter River, Poulter Range and Mt Brown. It was an inspired choice...except for the sandflies who are numerous and particularly vicious hereabouts. 

Bring DEET folks...you are going to need it. 



View down the Poulter Valley from Casey Hut II

There were only two of us in the hut that night...myself and a Dutch woman I met along the track. I was surprised as I thought a lot of people would have made like me and taken off early for the weekend. Saturday was VERY busy with nearly 50 people in, around or camping near the hut...

Dita (the Dutch woman) was in New Zealand on a working holiday when Covid-19 struck...she got an extension to her visa so she could stay in New Zealand until March next year. She was the only non Kiwi I met the whole weekend. We had a good chat about the Te Araroa Trail as she was doing a SOBO South Island section starting the middle of December. 

Good luck to you I hope you have a great adventure...


Casey Hut II: the veranda and solar panels


There is a nice plaque inside the hut acknowledging David Birks and Sharon English...if you look on You Tube there is an interview with both of them talking about the hut and why they donated so much to the cause. Both have a long standing relationship with the area. 

Hey all you folk...if you ever win big at Lotto why not emulate their generosity and build a hut in a deserving spot. As an example...DOC Fiordland need cash to replace Howdon Hut if you need a charity to give to. My dream project is a swingbridge over the Boyle River so people can access Doubtful Valley.....$200 000 should just about do it!!!!


Casey Hut II: the donors who made the hut possible

Casey Hut II: Interior of the new hut

Casey Hut II: the table and benches

The hut is a real beauty inside...very similar to the Poulter Hut further up river but set up slightly differently. This is the semi standard design for a 10-16 bunk backcountry hut....platform bunks, stainless steel benches, table, bench seats and wrap around veranda. Insulation for Africa and solar lights to lessen the risk of fire...


Object d'arte in the new Casey Hut II

Day 2:Saturday, 24th October: Casey Hut rest day


As you can see the view down the Poulter Valley is awesome and is particularly nice at sunrise and sunset. You can just see the newish (2017) Poulter Stout trappers Hut about another kilometer down the valley and up on a lovely sunny river terrace. I visited it on the way out to Binser Saddle on the last day of my tramp.


Sun sets over the Poulter Valley, Casey Hut II

Andrews-Casey-Binser route follows the 4 W/D track


Closer view of the solar panels at Casey Hut II

I had a rest day and stayed at the hut on the Saturday night..I went for a walk down to the nearby Poulter River, explored the hut site and just generally relaxed. Dita headed out to the track end over Binser Saddle and I had the area to myself until around lunch time when the first people started to drift in. 

The first to arrive were a couple of chaps who had camped down by Pete's Stream after walking over Binser Saddle in the dark. They were about my age and both were working on the Christchurch Cathedral rebuild so they had plenty of interesting information to pass on. Sounds like a complex and challenging project due for complete in 2035.....


Start of the tent city at the Casey Hut II site

The next arrivals were a group of university aged MTB riders who were staying for the night and two women who had camped on Hallelujah Flat the previous night. After that is was a steady stream of arrivals coming from both directions including trampers, MTB riders and hunters. 

We ended the night with 20 people inside the hut (Jon had the best bunk in the house..ha ha...) four on the veranda and over 15 tents set up outside. I counted 49 people in total....DOC will need to build a camp cook shelter here as well as another water tank and toilet as I envision similar levels of use every Easter, long weekend and over the summer break. 


MTB's lined up at the new Casey Hut, Arthurs Pass NP

Peveril Peak from the Casey Hut II site

The veranda is excellent on this hut...easily the best thought out design I have seen as it is wide and bright as it is covered with clearlite or some similar product. The hut is expandable with plenty of space to the side to add extra bunk space or a DOC wardens quarters. 


Casey Hut II: water tank and sink...

Casey Hut II: the wood burner in the hut

A full house at the new Casey Hut....


I appreciated the rest day in the hut...the 8 hour trip the previous day had tested me and I needed the rest before attempting the walk out over Binser Saddle. Much sleep, pain killers and four hot meals later I was feeling much better..


Jon inside Casey Hut II, Arthurs Pass NP

The official campsite is at the old Casey Hut site as it has a river nearby for water and plenty of flat ground for tents. I don't see people using this anymore...they will camp around the hut and on the massive river flat in front of the hut. I think the circuit will be popular for a while as people come check the new hut out.


More tents set up at Casey Hut II....

Myself, the two chaps working on the Cathedral and a family group were sitting around the table talking at 9 pm on the Saturday. We got told off by the 20'ish MTB riders who had gone to bed at 7.30pm because we got too loud. We were probably a bit noisy but honestly...what 20 year old sacks out at 7.30 pm in a tramping hut... 

People are getting soft....


Brilliant sunset from the Casey Hut veranda

Dusk over the tent city at Casey Hut

So that was Day 1 & 2 of my Andrews-Casey-Binser Saddle tramp...hard tramping on the first day with two big hills to climb over and a brand new comfortable hut to use at the end of the day. The tramp along the Andrews Valley Track is not technically difficult but it will challenge your fitness making it a good training tramp for tracks like the the Milford, Kepler and Humpridge Tracks.

I am so pleased to see a hut near Casey Stream once more and to finally be able to revisit a place I have not been to in nearly 10 years. I have many further plans for the area and expect to be back before too long. 

Come back soon to see the final day of the tramp where I head down the Poulter River to Pete's Stream and tackle the climb over Binser Saddle. 

Access: From off SH 73 drive along Mt White Road to Andrews Valley entrance near Andrews Shelter, other exit is at base of Binser Saddle 4 kms along Mt White Station Road
Track Times: 6-7 hours to Casey Campsite additional 30 minutes to Casey Hut II, 4 hours to Pete's Stream, 4-5 hours to Andrews Shelter via Binser Saddle
Hut Details: Andrews Shelter, no bunks, no heating, toilet: Scratch campsites on Hallelujuh Flats, no toilets, water from stream: DOC campsite on old Casey Hut location, toilet and wood shed, water from nearby stream: Casey Hut II: Serviced, 12 bunks, watertank, woodburner, solar lighting, wood shed, toilets: Scratch campsites on the river terraces around Pete's Stream, no toilet, water from stream. Camping is possible at Binser Saddle but no toilets of close water source. 
Miscellaneous: All streams on this circuit are un-bridged and may be impossible to cross in heavy rain, long periods traversing flats which are prone to windy conditions. 

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