Kohanga Atawhai/Manson Nicholls Hut..the newest DOC hut in New Zealand...
Over the last weekend I went for an overnight tramp into the brand new Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nicholls Hut at Lake Daniell. This is the newest hut in New Zealand and replaces a memorial hut that was removed in late 2019.
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| Car park at Marble Hill...start of the Lake Daniell Track |
You follow the excellent Lake Daniell Track through impressive mixed Podocarp & Red Beech forest from the Marble Hill car-park just west of Maruia Springs to Lake Daniell. The track is a true all weather tramp as all of the smaller side streams along the route have now been bridged. This means you can visit this hut in even the heaviest of rain with little chance of mishap.
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| Typical track on the way to Lake Daniell |
The original Manson-Nicholls Hut was built to remember three Canterbury trampers who perished when the old Lake Daniell Fishing Hut was destroyed by a landslide back in 1974. They were sheltering in the hut during a massive storm which blasted this area over Easter of that year.
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| The original Manson-Nichols Memorial Hut (1976-2019) |
Brian and Sharon Manson and Phillip Nicholls were killed and another tramper escaped with serious injuries. A group of family and friends from the CTC raised the funds for a new hut which was built by the club and opened to the public in 1976. It was gifted to the nation and became part of the DOC hut stable in 1987.
The well loved hut served faithfully for over 40 years but had become too problematic to maintain so a decision was made to build a new structure in 2019. After having enjoyed its delights I believe the new hut will be a worthy successor...
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| The new Manson-Nicholls Hut at Lake Daniell |
On the way out to Marble Hill on the Saturday I took the opportunity to do some night tramping... starting in the dark I walked for over an hour before it became light enough to see without a head torch. It was quite fun and relatively safe on this easy to follow track.
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| Night tramping on the way back to Marble Hill along the Lake Daniell Track |
The Department of Conservation rate this track as easy to intermediate; it is 8.4 km's or 2-3 hours walking time mostly on flat ground but with a couple of small spurs you need to sidle around. This is a perfect tramping destination if you are just starting out as a solo tramper...easy travel to a top notch hut. If you go anytime outside of winter you will find people here...
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| Tramping over the last spur on the way to Marble Point campsite |
The only problematic point is the regular car thefts and vandalism which happen at the Marble Hill car park. Unfortunately no car-park along this highway is safe..there are regular bouts of criminality as this is one of the main conduits from the east coast to the economically depressed West Coast.
I have been here four times in the last six years and never had a problem but I know of trampers who have problems every time they visit. Don't leave anything valuable in your car at this car-park and make sure it is securely locked before you start tramping.
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| Mist and cloud over the Alfred River Valley |
There is a DOC backcountry campsite at Marble Hill with sites for tents, cars and camper vans. There are also toilets, picnic tables and water supplied although it must be boiled before use. If you were travelling from some distance you can camp the night at the campsite before setting off up the track the next morning.
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| The Silver Surfer parked at the Marble Hill campsite |
I really like this track, Lake Daniell and the new hut so I recommend you go have a look for yourself. Anyway lets see what the track to the lake looks like..
On the Lake Daniell Track...
When I started working on this post I went back to look at the last time I had visited Lake Daniell and I saw that 2014 was the last time I was here. That seems like a million years ago now what with all that has happened since. I don't know why it has been so long since I returned...I think it's because the car park is not that secure but I should come here more often as it is a wee gem of a track.
Anyway....
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| I had heavy rain when I visited Lake Daniell back in 2014... |
You access the Marble Hill campsite at the start of the track from SH 7 (Lewis Pass Highway). The turn off is 5 km past the Maruia Springs complex and five km's from Springs Junction. There is a great campsite here with spots for a variety of users, toilets, water supply and fire pits. The car-park for the Lake Daniel Track is right at the end of the campsite road.
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| Turn off SH7 to the Marble Hill campsite... |
I parked my car on the campsite closest to the track start...normally I wouldn't do this but because it is winter and I was the only person around it was unlikely anyone would object to me parking there. I grabbed all my gear and set out along the 8.4 km 2-3 hour track to Lake Daniell.
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| Silver Surfer parked at the Marble Hill campsite |
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| Trampers shelter at the Marble Hill campsite |
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| DOC map of the Lake Daniell Track |
It was a good day to be tramping...blue skies with no wind and a slight chill in the air. I had been worried about snow but there was no snow at all except for on the tops of the high ridges surrounding the whole area. It was one of those glorious mid winter days you sometimes get in between the stormy weather.
The first part of the track is a gentle stroll down to the Sluice Box...a footbridge across the Maruia River about 400 meters from the car-park. This section is through some impressively big Red Beech trees and is typical of what you will find along the rest of the track.
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| Start of the Lake Daniell Track at Marble Hill |
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| Heading to the Sluice Box on Lake Daniell Track |
Stop and have a look at the river if you ever come up here. It is constricted down from a 100 meter wide river bed to a deep and powerful channel about 15 meters wide and 4-5 meters deep. I know people jump into the river from the bridge but I say bugger that...it looks like it would be hellishly cold to me...
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| The Sluice Box crosses the Maruia River, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Upstream of the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Downstream of the Sluice Box on Lake Daniell Track |
If you look just upriver from the Sluice Box you can see the confluence of the Maruia River and the Alfred River which runs in towards Lake Daniell. The Alfred is a moderately big river and this is where the run off from Lake Daniell eventually goes.
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| Just visible is the Alfred River-Maruia River confluence |
Lake Daniell Track is flat for almost all of its length, the only rises are sidles around spurs running down into the Alfred River and over an ancient debris mound closer to the hut. You spend the whole trip no more than 40 meters above the level of the river so it is suitable for older trampers, children and newbie's alike.
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| Lake Daniell Track: climb over the first ridge |
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| There is a lot of boardwalk on the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Red Beech trees along the Lake Daniell Track |
Once past the first spur you will find yourself on the first of three river clearings where the valley opens up a bit. These areas were all frozen over...it was -4 degrees overnight and during the winter little sun light reaches the flats. There are many great camping spots along here but just take care to note where the flood channels are as the Alfred can rise quite a bit during heavy rain.
Don't camp on the river bed lest your awake to find yourself taking a cruise!!!
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| First flat along the Alfred River, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Lake Daniell Track; frozen river flats near the start |
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| Good to see some sun along the Lake Daniell Track |
You get your first clear view of the Alfred River about 30 minutes into the tramp when the track is along the bank of the waterway for a short distance. The river was running clear and shallow by the looks of it...this water is safe but should be treated before use as they have had Giardia up here before.
There is a 4 W/D road through the forest on the true left of the river...this goes up to the Pell Stream-Alfred confluence and was used when there were gold diggings there till the late 1960's. I have long wanted to visit the four bunk Pell Stream Hut but it s a really hard trip...it is a 6 hour grovel up the river with a couple of rough permolat tracks en-route. Pell Stream Hut would get less than 20 visitors a year as it is so difficult to reach.
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| First view of the Alfred River from the Lake Daniell Track |
Below is a photo of the famous tree swing...a jutting branch that thousands of kids must have swung on over the decades. I see that the end has had a branch trimmed off...it may have broken at some stage as it did stick out into the track...
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| Lake Daniell Track: the famous tree swing... |
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| More boardwalk on the Lake Daniell Track |
I noticed a sign nailed to a tree near one of the river flats warning about the penalties for mining in a Forest Park. It looks like it has been here for awhile but I have never noticed it before. There used to be several gold mining operations up this valley but these ceased when it became part of the Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve.
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| Warning about mining in the Alfred River area |
There is a $40 000 fine and or 2 years in jail for mining in the area...not worth the payout you might find in river gold. I was looking at the rocks as I was walking along and I did see a lot of interesting samples along the way...lots of quartz which always bodes well for gold deposits.
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| The first of 10 bridges on the Lake Daniell Track |
I made good progress along the track as the gradient is so flat and before I knew it I was starting the climb up to the Pell Stream lookout which is near the half way point of the track.
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| Another clearing along the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Frozen grass along the Lake Daniell Track |
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| A large Red Beech seems to block the Lake Daniell Track |
A lesson in track marking...
Here is a curious sight...crosses of orange permolat used to mark the track...I saw several of this design as I walked towards the Lake.
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| Lake Daniell Track: unusual trail marking... |
The Department of Conservation and its forebears have used a number of different track marking materials over the years. Painted tin lids, wooden signs, round markers and tree blazes have all been used at one time or another. In the late 1960-1970's permolat (a type of thin aluminium sheeting used for Venetian blind making) was used in both red and white color. All of these proved problematic.
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| An old round marker on the track to Carrington Hut, Waimakiriri River Valley |
When DOC was formed in 1987 they started looking for an alternate. Different materials, shapes and colors were used to see which was the most visible, easy to use and rugged. Orange permolat crosses were one of the many versions DOC tried before settling on the standard orange triangles we have now.
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| ...and repeated further along the Lake Daniell Track |
They didn't remove the old markers but just replace them as they slowly disappear. You will often find old markers on your journeys...keep an eye out for them the next time you are tramping.
...on the Lake Daniell track...
The main ford of the Alfred River is just before you start the climb to the Pell Stream lookout...there are many possible places to cross the river but this is the safest. Don't try crossing this river if it has been raining and the water is discolored...several people have drowned trying to do so.
I had my first rest break here after walking for 45 minutes from Marble Hill car park.
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| First rest stop at the Alfred River ford... |
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| The boardwalk protects the plants not you....Lake Daniell Track |
About 10 minutes from the Alfred ford you will strike Troll bridge...this is the most easily recognized mid point on this track. It is 4.1 km's to Marble Hill and 4.3 km's to Lake Daniell so walk another 100 meters and you are on the downhill run...
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| Troll Bridge on the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Half way to the Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Jon at Troll bridge on the Lake Daniell Track |
There is a bench at the lookout for Pell Stream about 4.4 kilometers along the track to Lake Daniell. I imagine there must have been a view of the valley opposite at one time but the trees have since matured and there is no view at all.
This is a good place to stop for a rest as it is downhill from this point till after Fraser Creek. I stopped here on my way back to the car park the next morning...just long enough to have a snack and a drink and to re-adjust my pack before continuing on my way.
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| The Pell Stream lookout is past the half way mark...Lake Daniell Track |
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| The famous Pell Stream lookout....with zero views!!! |
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| View from the Pell Stream lookout....forest!!! |
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| Starting the descent down to Frazer Stream, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Heading down to the clearing just past Pell Stream, Lake Daniell Track |
There are a number of bridges between the Pell Stream lookout and Fraser Creek most of them are over steep gullies which bisect the track from Pt. 1086. The route of the track through here is generally downwards as you sidle around the last spur at this end of the track.
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| Lake Daniell Track: bridge over a deep gully.... |
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| Small cascade along the Lake Daniell Track |
Eventually you will find yourself down at Fraser Stream...this used to be a problematic part of the track during rain but DOC have laid water divergence culverts in the stream bed so you now have no river crossings to complete.
This is the alternate place to access Pell Stream...you just walk down the river for a couple of hundred meters to the confluence with the Alfred River. Note that this route is more difficult than the main crossing point...there is a gorge area and some river travel required.
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| At the Fraser Stream crossing, Lake Daniell Track |
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| The largest creek you cross on the Lake Daniell Track |
From Fraser Stream you are only 1.2 km's away from Lake Daniell but first you have to climb up onto the top of the ancient debris field that blocked this valley and formed Lake Daniell. It is only 40 meters of elevation gain from the level of Fraser Stream so not strenuous at all.
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| Climbing the slip debris past Frazer Stream, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Lake Daniell Track: flat track on the slip debris past Fraser Stream |
Once on top of the debris it is flat walking for the last kilometer to the hut through some very lovely goblin forest. There are many sections of boardwalk along this area as the land is flat and swampy when it rains. Fraser Stream runs along the side of the track in a number of places..it was almost dry as the area has not had much rain over the last month or so.
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| Easy walking track over the last kilometer to Manson-Nicholls Hut |
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| A mostly dry Fraser Stream from the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Goblin forest along the Lake Daniell Track |
The forest thins as you get close to Lake Daniell and you can hear the calls from a variety of waterfowl. You cannot see the actual lake until you break out into the hut clearing. There are some big Red Beech trees close to the lake..they are the predominant species in the area and these are some good examples of the species. They are probably still here as it would have been a difficult task to haul them out to the road.
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| The forest thins as you approach Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve |
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| Final boardwalk before Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell Track |
I got my first glimpse of the new hut after walking for about two hours...you could just make out the hut wardens quarters through the trees. I was pleased to arrive as I was curious to see who if anyone I would be sharing the hut with that night.
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| First glimpse of Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut (2020), Lake Daniell |
In the end I had the hut totally to myself that night, in fact I didn't see another person until the next morning when I passed a mother and her daughter heading into the hut for the weekend.
At Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell
The new hut has been built a bit further away from the lake and DOC have taken the opportunity to clean up the edges of the clearing the hut sits in. What this means is that it is in a drier, more airy and much sunnier position than previously which will all help with longevity.
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| The clearing at the Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
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| Lake Daniell form near the Manson-Nicholls hut |
The hut is a serviced 20 bunker with a big living and cooking area...the bunk rooms branch off the main part of the hut. The building is designed to be expandable if demand requires this some time in the future. There is a very sunny veranda and a deck along the front of the hut so people can sit outside if they want.
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| Manson-Nicholl Hut: the front veranda...seats.... |
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| Full woodshed at Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
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| The rear of the Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
There are three large water tanks at the hut which are connected to the gutters around the hut...this is great as water will always be a problem in such a popular hut It wouldn't take too many groups of school kids visiting before the tanks drained so they built in more capacity than is currently required.
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| Water tanks at Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
They have a novel and very fancy toilet set up at the hut with a filtration system which separate fluid and solid wastes and only needs to be cleaned out once every five years. The solid biomass can be spread in the nearby forest as it is a composting system. Now...that is all good provided it works o.k but it is the first in New Zealand so I will reserve my opinion for awhile.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut toilet block at Lake Daniell |
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: has a fancy French toilette..... |
There is a separate two bunk hut wardens quarters attached to the main hut...Manson-Nicholls is due to go on the booking system eventually so there will be a hut warden located here from September through May. It is well appointed with a gas cooker, gas shower, solar lighting, wood burner and refrigerator. I bet people in the Greymouth Conservatory office will be fighting to get posted here.
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| Hut wardens quarters at Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
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| Inside the hut wardens quarters at Manson-Nicholls Hut |
Manson-Nicholls hut has been designed with families, school groups and newbie trampers in mind so it is outfitted to serve these groups. Of course anyone will be able to use the hut so it will be interesting to see who ends up using the hut. There is plenty of space inside to hold big groups with massive amounts of bench space and plenty of seating as well.
I would have preferred if the fire was more centrally located as heat distribution is a bit off but we cant get everything we want.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: the wet room (cloakroom) at the hut |
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| Tramping etiquette poster at Manson-Nicholls Hut...required!!! |
There is a great chalk wall on the walls of the living area and several boxes of chalk...it was already well decorated but this will be awesome when kids come up here. There is plenty to do around the lake especially in the summer but this is another distraction for them...
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: chalk wall inside the hut.... |
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| ...more messages on the Manson-Nicholls Hut chalkwall... |
The interior of the hut is standard DOC...lots of plywood walls, stainless steel and plenty of windows for sun to stream into the hut. The building was warm despite the low temperature (4 degrees Celsius...) as it has double glazing and good insulation.
With all that insulation condensation in the hut becomes a problem so I opened all the windows to air the hut when I arrived. I closed them before I started the fire later in the afternoon. After I had the fire going it was warm so I opened the doors of the bunkroom's to give the hut a good dry out.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: the excellent wood burner... |
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| Living space at Manson-Nicholls Hut |
There are two bunkrooms off the main room; one is platform style with space for 12 people the other has 8 individual bunks. This is kind of standard for any new DOC hut of this size as some people prefer to have their own bunk and not sleep next to strangers.
Personally I think platforms are far more efficient...this could have been a 24 bunk hut if the second room had platforms. There is probably space for another 10 people on the floors if that was required.
As I had the hut to myself I slept in the platform room with my usual mattress castle...two mattresses placed next to each other and two high.
Nice.....!!!!
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: one of the two bunk rooms... |
The solar lights work on a timer so you can activate them for a maximum of 2 hours at a time.....there is a massive bank of solar panels on all of the outbuildings so I don't think power supply will ever be a problem.
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| Light switch in the Manson-Nicholls Hut |
They removed the information panels from the old hut and placed them in the new one. I am pleased they kept the name as there was some talk of just calling it Lake Daniell Hut. It is fitting to remember those who have passed before and the old hut was a much treasured place for many trampers who knew the Manson/ Nicholls families. I personally believe that if a hut is built as a memorial then it should always keep the original memorial name...
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| Information panel from the old Manson-Nicholls Memorial Hut |
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| Information panel from the old Manson-Nicholls Memorial Hut |
Look at all that stainless steel...magnificent!! Cooking space is always at a premium in a hut of this size and it only takes half a dozen people cooking at the same time to fill it all. There are three 4 meter long benches so there should be no problems at all.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: the cooking area...lots of space!!! |
I had a native South Island Robin following me around the whole time I was at Lake Daniell...he was a cheeky bugger as well. I left the door open at one point and he came in and had a good look around before pop-pop-popping out the door. I saw a number of them around the hut so the pest control they did late in 2019 must be working.
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| South Island Robin that followed me into the hut.... |
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| South Island Robin on the veranda at the Manson-Nicholls Hut |
As you can see there is plenty of space around the hut for tents although you would want to refrain from placing them right in front of the hut as it is a bit wet. The new campsite shelter is an excellent idea and I have recently noticed more of them around the country. They must be built to a standard plan as this one is almost a replica of the ones we saw on Rakuira when we walked the Great Walk last year.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut from the lake shoreline... |
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| Lake Daniell and the most photographed dock in New Zealand |
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| View of Manson-Nicholls Hut from the lake dock |
Lake Daniell is very shallow..you can easily walk nearly 50 meters from the shore and the water is only waist deep (I tried it once....cold). At the end of the dock it is only 20cm deep but the lake seemed unnaturally shallow to me so there might not have been a lot of rain recently.
There are trout and native eels in the lake...I didn't directly see any but I could see them disturbing the surface of the lake. The last time I was here in 2014 one of the hut occupants caught a trout that was about 40-50 cm long. There are also a lot of waterfowl...I saw Scaup, Mallards, Swans and what looked like Paradise Ducks.
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| Lake Daniell is very shallow well away from the shoreline... |
If you find yourself at the lake with nothing to do go for a walk to the far end of it. I have been there once before and it takes about an hour to walk through the thin forest to the rocky shore at the western end. If you keep going through the forest there are river flats with two private huts which you can bag; Thompson Hut and the Wilderness Lands Hut.
You used to be able to stay at Thompson Hut which was a NZFS70 (6 bunk) deer culler's hut but I think overnight access is now closed as it is no longer named on the latest NZ topo maps. DOC huts usually have a name on topo maps.
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| View to the north west end of Lake Daniell |
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| The south eastern end of Lake Daniell...this is the lake outlet... |
There are piles of wood waiting around the hut to be chopped into usable sized chunks...the wood shed was full but there is easily wood for 5-6 years here if DOC store it properly. One Red Beech tree would easily provide 2-3 woodsheds full of wood and it burns clean and hot...
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| Wood waiting to be cut up at Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
Here is my bird buddy once again following me around the campsite...he should show a bit more caution as most people are not as gentle as I am. I appreciated his company over the rest of the afternoon...
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| Jon at Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve |
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| Another South Island Robin at the Lake Daniell dock.... |
It was so lovely I sat outside on the veranda in the sun for more than an hour and ate my late lunch...no sand-flies which is one of the reasons tramping in the winter is so good. In summertime they will be picking you up and flying away with you at this lake...bring the DEET if visiting at that time of the year.
I had a smorgasbord...tuna, crackers, some snacks I had not eaten, soup and a massive brew...good stuff!!!
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| Eating my lunch on the Manson-Nicholls Hut veranda |
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| Sun bathes the clearing at Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
The firewood was lovely and dry so I cut up a massive pile as I expected it to get cold at night time.It was so dry that just about split itself as soon as you looked at it....nice!!! Most of the wood went inside the hut but I also left a pile just outside the door to the wet room for any future visitors.
It was warmer than I expected but you absolutely needed the fire going as it got down to the low single digits once the rain started around 8 pm.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut....Jon-bo be choppin' sum wood a' yer'n hut.... |
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut: a full woodshed...yea haarrgghhhh!!!!! |
As I said before DOC have built a new campsite shelter with water, cooking benches, picnic tables and some outdoor fire-pits. This will be a great addition to this site as there is nothing more soul destroying than sitting in the rain eating your dinner. There is space on this side of the hut for about 5-10 tents with additional space available along the nearby forest edge.
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| The excellent campsite shelter at Lake Daniell campsite |
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| Detail of the Lake Daniell campsite shelter... |
I sat outside and read my magazine and newspaper until the sun started to go down behind the nearby mountains. Once the sun was gone the temperature quickly plummeted and it was time to go inside to start the fire. The lake was totally calm so I got some good reflective photos of the mountains on the water before I went in.
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| Late afternoon reflection on a calm Lake Daniell |
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| Beautiful scenes as the sun sets at Lake Daniell |
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| Lake Daniell on a tranquil afternoon... |
The last two times I was here it was really stormy so this was not the image I associate with this lake. It had been a wonderful winter day...I mean you really couldn't ask for better conditions for a weekend tramp over the winter.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut in the gathering gloom... |
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| The water at the end of the Lake Daniell wharf is 20 cms deep... |
The new wood-burner they have installed in the hut is awesome...very easy to use, efficient and it pumped out a lot of heat once I got it burning properly. After burning for about 20 minutes it was warm enough in the hut that I had to remove my fleece as I was starting to overheat.
The only thing missing was some coal to chuck on the fire...I know environmentally it is awful but it is so much more efficient as a fuel and it is plentiful on the West Coast. There were several bags of coal here the last time I stayed.
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| A blazing wood burner in Manson-Nicholls Hut |
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| Firewood I prepared earlier at Manson-Nicholls Hut |
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| More firewood at the Manson-Nicholls Hut |
It was still light outside right up to about 7.30 pm so every so often I would go outside to have a look around. I was expecting some late arrivals all evening but nobody else was keen to go for a tramp so I ended up with a big old hut just to myself.
I wish I had taken some cards along so I could play some Solitaire but I forgot to pack them..oh well, I will take some next time and leave them in the hut.
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| View from the kitchen at Manson-Nicholls Hut |
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| Mist rolls in during the early evening...Manson-Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniell |
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| My South Island Robin friend back for another visit at Manson-Nicholls Hut |
Those solar lights work well...they provide more than enough light for cooking duties even after dark but you will still need the head torch if you are reading at the tables at each end of the living area. Having no candles significantly lessens the chances of fire so you should expect to see more solar lights in existing huts as time goes on.
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut has solar electric lighting.... |
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| Boiling some water for tea on the Manson-Nicholls Hut wood burner |
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| Night sets in at Manson-Nicholls Hut... |
After dinner I sat in front of the fire for a while before heading off to bed at around 9.30 pm..it was lovely and warm in the hut even after the fire died away. It started raining about 8 pm and was falling quite hard in the early morning before easing just before 4 am.
Night tramping back to Marble Hill campsite...
Because I went to bed so early I was wide awake at 5.30 am in the morning...I couldn't get back to sleep so I decided I might as well get up and walk back out to the car-park in the dark. sunrise in Winter is normally some time between 8-9 am so even after having a coffee and warm breakfast and packing my gear it was still only 7 am and pitch black as I left the hut.
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| The electric lights at Manson-Nicholls Hut are quite effective |
Night tramping is fun provided you take some precautions like taking a good head torch with new batteries, tramping on an easy track and you need to keep your wits about you so you don't go off track. If you are ever trying it out and you find yourself momentarily misplaced STOP immediately and wait for it to get light. The track might be 2 meters away but in the dark it might as well be 20 meters away...
There is no easier way to dead yourself than blundering around outdoors in the dark!!!
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| Manson-Nicholls Hut as I prepared to depart for the road end |
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| Goodbye Manson-Nicholls Hut...see you again soon buddy... |
That said if you were ever going to try out some night tramping this is the ideal track to try it on...it is flat, well marked and easy to follow. I made good progress along the track and by the time it was light enough to walk without the head torch I was climbing the hill to the Pell Stream lookout bench.
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| Into the forest at night on the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Rain falling in the forest on the Lake Daniell Track |
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| You need a good headlamp for night tramping... |
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| Ghostly light using a flash on the Lake Daniell Track |
Dawn started to break through the trees after about 30 minutes walking time..it was still too dark to walk without a torch but it slowly got brighter with each step I took. It would probably have been lighter but for the low scudding rain cloud which filled the valley. I had my rain jacket on all the way back to the car but the forest is thick enough that I never really got wet as the trees blocked the rain.
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| Dawn comes as I walk the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Lake Daniell Track: culvert over the river crossing at Fraser Creek |
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| Starting the climb up to the Pell Stream outlook, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Nearly at the Pell Stream viewpoint...still half dark!! |
Even though it was still raining lightly I stopped at the Pell Stream lookout for 10 minutes for a snack and water break. I could probably have walked all the way to the car without stopping but it doesn't really prove anything. It is better to stop for your breaks and get there slightly later but in better shape.
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| Half way to Marble Hill car-park on the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Lake Daniell Track: negotiating some old fallen trees |
I headed off after a 10 minute break on the final hour to the car...by now it was light enough that I no longer needed the torch. I made good progress along the track with a soft misty rain falling the whole way. The track was wet but not slippery and there were more side stream running but apart from that it was just tramping along the track I had walked along the previous day.
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| Native Fuschia trees growing along the Lake Daniell Track |
I spooked a red deer just before I got to the big flat along the Alfred River...it was probably feeding in the clearing and making its way back up hill and further away from the pesky humans. It bolted off through the forest...it is amazing how an animal that big can move with such agility in dense forest.
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| Lake Daniell Track...mixture of Beech, Totora and Rimu trees |
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| Back at the Alfred River, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Clouds shroud the Lewis Pass Tops, Lake Daniell Track |
That is a nice little bush window in that photo below...a side track down to a crossing point to the river flats along the Alfred River. The main track used to go this way but the embankment is slowly being eaten away by the river every time there is a flood.
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| A window showing the Alfred River from the Lake Daniell Track |
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| Very typical track on the Lake Daniell Track |
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| A fence to stop you falling into the Alfred River |
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| Raised but still able to be forded...Alfred River, Lake Daniell Track |
I passed a couple of other trampers heading into the hut just as I walked out onto the big river flats...the first people I had seen in more than 24 hours. It was a young mother and her 5-6 year old daughter heading up to the lake for the weekend. We had a bit of a chat and then parted ways...
These are typical of the people the Lake Daniels Track and Manson-Nicholls Hut was built for and it was good to see someone other than a old white dude out tramping.
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| On the river flats along the Alfred River, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Lake Daniell Track: the track sidles around a couple of spurs... |
When I got to the end of the track just before the Sluice Box I could see that all the surrounding mountain ranges were cloaked in mist.This is the first place you can see into the distance and shows how well the track is covered by the forest. It was still raining but only lightly so it is helpful that you are under the protection of the trees for most of the length of this track.
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| Last view of the Alfred River on the return to Marble Hill |
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| Last spur before the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track |
The Maruia River was running a bit higher after the rain but certainly not as high as I have seen it on occasion. I would love to come have a look during one of those really big rain storms as Im sure it would be impressive.
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| View from the true right of the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track |
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| Nearly at the end of the Lake Daniell Track |
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| My pack at the trampers shelter at Marble Hill, Lake Daniell Track |
I got back to the car-park after just over two hours of walking and sat under the trampers shelter so I could sort all my gear out before packing it in the car. The car was out in the open so I wanted to find my keys so I didn't need to stand in the rain for too long.
I was pleased to see that my car was there and intact...there is a bit of a vandalism at this car park at times but it is certainly safer than the car park up at Lewis Pass. Don't leave any valuables in sight if you park here.
I had a great trip...really enjoyable and I really must get back up to Lake Daniell again soon and preferably before five years have passed. The track is awesome...the new hut is cool..no people..it was a thoroughly enjoyable overnight tramp.
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| Lake Daniel is at the head of the Alfred River Valley... |
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| Misty rain fills the Maruia River Valley, from the Marble hill campsite |
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| The useful trampers shelter at Marble Hill car-park |
Just a cautionary note about visiting Lake Daniell. This track is really safe but there is no backcountry track in New Zealand that is 100% safe...you have to keep your mind on what you are doing at all times. If you head off to relieve yourself for gods sake make sure you can still see the track. Stay with your tramping party. If you are solo have the skills, knowledge and equipment to be self sufficient. Be careful if you go exploring off track as there are rivers, bluffs and dense bush which will take the unwary.
Altogether five people have come to grief in this area over the years excluding the Manson's and Phillip Nicholls. Three of them drowned while trying to cross the Alfred or Pell River after rain but there are two cases of people just disappearing off the track..
Back in the 1990's a hunter went missing after staying overnight at the old Manson-Nicholls Hut and was never seen again despite a massive search. In 2002 a 14 year old boy went missing and was later found deceased after losing his tramping party and falling off an embankment. Both were on the track heading back out to the car park.
Be safe out there....
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| Plenty of parking at the Marble Hill car-park |
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| A pleasing sight...the Silver Surfer still safe and intact... |
I will be coming back to Lake Daniell in the near future as I want to bring Karen up here to see how good it is. Hopefully we will have a weekend when it is relatively quiet as she enjoys that better than a hut filled to the seams. The hut goes on the booking system in late August-early September which should even out any problems with too many folk staying here at one time
If you are looking for a quick weekend trip, are just getting back into tramping or have children then the Manson-Nicholls Hut is for you. I absolutely recommend it as a destination at any time of the year..you should go have a look for yourself.
Cheers all...!!!
Access: Take SH7, the Lewis Pass Highway, turn off at Marble Point camp site 5 km's west of Maruia Springs, track starts next to car park shelter
Track Times: 2-3 hours to Manson-Nicholls Hut at Lake Daniells
Hut Details: Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nichols Hut: serviced, 20 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, toilets: Lake Daniells campsite: standard rate, space for 5-10 tents with additional space in the forest. There is a very nice campsite cooking shelter with a bench, water tank and several picnic tables.
Miscellaneous: All weather track to a good standard with all streams now bridged. The hut is currently a 'first come' but will be going onto the hut booking system in September 2020. Hut was opened in June 2020 so it is the newest DOC hut in New Zealand. It can be busy in Summer or over the holidays and a hut warden will be in attendance at these times.
