Punakaiki Series: I of III: Pororari River Track (Paparoa Great Walk Track)

Paparoa Track or Pororari River Track....no its both!!!

Most of the walks Karen and I did while in Punakaiki were short....usually less than an hour return and concentrated along the coastline. We did go for one much longer tramp up the Pororari River to the junction of the Paparoa Track and the Inland Pack Track.

Typical river scene along the Pororari River Track

The Pororari River Track is also the new Paparoa Great Walk....if you are walking the Great Walk the last hour is along the course of the Pororari River. Alternately if you are MTB riding the Paparoa Track you follow the course of the Inland Pack Track out to the Waikori Road exit at the Punakaiki River.

The Pororari River Track is also the end of the Paparoa Great Walk Track

Stylized Maori entrance gate along the Pororari River Track

The Pororari River Valley is beautiful and spectacular in equal measure...it is a deeply incised limestone valley with 200+ meter high bluffs on both sides with a small fertile river strip in the middle. The bush is dense and verdant as only a West Coast forest can be and contains a strange mixture of podocarp, sub alpine and lowland forest species.

Limestone bluffs along the Pororari River Valley

It was possibly the most enjoyable of all the walks we tried and once again I was happy to have my lovely Karen along with me. She is a great tramping companion and a lot of fun to have along on a trip into the outdoors. Anyway...lets have a look at the Pororari River Track.

On the Pororari River Track/Paparoa Great Walk Track

The Pororari River Track starts at the car-park next to the Pororari River bridge on SH6 opposite the Punakaiki Beach Camp. It is about 3 kilometers or 1-1.5 hours walking up the river to get to the swing-bridge which crosses the Pororari River the target of our walk. The track is to Great Walk standard as this is also the pedestrian exit for people walking the Paparoa Great Walk.

Pororari River Track car park at Punakaiki

Start of the Pororari River Track at Punakaiki

We were still operating under Covid-19 level 2.......

Map: Pororari River Track to the Pororari swing-bridge

here is a information kiosk at the start of the track with information about all the various tracks which start from this place. These include the Paparoa Great Walk, Pororari River Track, Inland Pack Track, Cave Creek Resurgence, Mt Bovis Route and the Punakaiki-Pororari River-Waikori Road circuit track.

Karen and I were heading for the swing-bridge at the junction of the Paparoa Track-Inland Pack Track junction just past the Pororari River Gorge.

Information kiosk at the start of the Pororari River Track

Pororari River Track kiosk....lots of information about the Paparoa Track

DOC map of the Pororari River Track area

The track is mostly flat with some very minor undulations...it follows the course of the Pororari River and in fact you have it in sight for a good 90% of the time you are walking. The track can become flooded in heavy rain as it is close to the river in a number of spots but for the most part it would be 10-20 meters away from the river and slightly elevated.

The forest starts near the beginning of the Pororari River Track

The Pororari River has deeply incised the limestone bluffs 

The Paparoa Track only opened in 2019 and has yet to have a full season as it was closed for most of this last summer because of a number of slips along its length. This part of the track is long established..it has been here for several decades but was significantly upgraded when it achieved Great Walk status.

The Maori gate at the beginning of the Paparoa Track/Pororari River Track

Official start of the Pororari River Track

It really is a beautiful valley...there are huge soaring limestone bluffs on both sides with dense native forest occupying all of the land between them. It has a mixture of podocarp species as well as the ubiquitous Nikau Palms, flaxes, grasses and thick dense undergrowth.

The Pororari River is about 30 meters wide through most of its length and is relatively shallow with either rocks, sand or small gravel in the river bed.

The Pororari River is relatively shallow....

Pororairi River Track: Interesting mix of various flaxes and grasses

Looking west to the mouth of the Pororari River

Nikau grove along the Pororari River Track

Nikau grove on the far side of the Pororari River

We made good time up the track on the easy to walk on track surface...it is fine gravel and sand and is that standard 1.5 meters wide track you get on all Great Walks. There were a few people around mostly day walkers like us although we did pass 2-3 groups of people who were obviously walking the whole Paparoa Track.

A seat about 20 minutes up the Pororari River Track

Looking east up the Pororari River, inland from Punakaiki

There are a profusion of big boulders along the side of this track I imagine they have fallen off the bluffs in times pass. Most of them are covered in moss or some small life-form like the one in the photo below.

Pororari River Track: a moss covered split rock along the track...

We heard or saw a few birds as we were walking...mostly Fantails and Weka but we also saw some Bellbirds, Swallows and a mix of seabirds near the mouth of the river. I would have expected more birds in this forest but then it is close to human habitation and they are probably put off by all the people walking up and down the track.

A Weka we encountered along the Pororari River Track

You are travelling west to east up this river and as you get further along the track the gorge gets tighter and tighter. At its mouth the Pororari River Valley would be nearly a kilometer wide but when you get to the middle of the gorge (after 40 minutes) it is only a hundred meters wide at most. The valley opens up again near the swing-bridge.....

The Pororari River narrows about 40 minutes up the Pororari River Track

Western end of Pororari river gorge....note downward slope of plateau..

The West Coast is wet...lots and lots of rain means there are numerous bridges along the track. Most of these are small...only a few meters long but some are larger as they pass over side streams and impassable sections of the gorge. Here are a few examples in the photos below...

Types of bridges on the Pororari River Track.....

Types of bridges on the Pororari River Track.....

Types of bridges on the Pororari River Track.....

When you get a view down to the river you can see that this valley often floods...lots of submerged trees in the river and massed tangles of trees around rocks and on the river bars. When you approach the eastern end of the track it climbs up the side of the valley and sidles along under the bluffs as there is no space for a track closer to the river. 

Near the eastern end of the Pororari River Gorge

A nice set of steps near the Pororari River Gorge..

About 45 minutes into the tramp you will come to a subterranean cavern where the track has been routed through a gap under a couple of house sized boulders. It is a bit eerie as it looks like you are climbing into the bowels of the earth as you approach and nobody wants to do that if they can help it. 

There are sets of stairs inside which led down to the track again...it is an awesome wee trick and one of the highlights of this track. Given how safety conscious the local DOC office is I am surprised they didn't just blow it to bits to clear the way....

Subterranean tunnel on the Pororari River Track

The rock tunnel on the Pororari River Track

Jon inside the Pororari River Track tunnel

Looking into the Pororari River Track tunnel from below

Close confines in the Pororari River Track tunnel

You will know when you are closing in on the swing bridge because the bluffs on the true right of the river start to descend. There is a large flat plateau near the swing-bridge which was once farmed but is now reverting to forest.

It is about 10-15 minutes walk from this point to the end of the Pororari River Track and the start of the Inland Pack Track. 

On the Pororari River Track at its eastern end

The Pororari River is only 30 meters wide at the eastern end...

The water in the river was clear so it was easy to see the river bed under the water. This also emphasized how deep it can get when you get to a pool in the river as you can see the bottom even when it is 3+ meters deep...

Deep submerged trees in the Pororari River 

There is an active slip zone about 50 minutes up the Pororari River Track where a section of the hillside is slowly sinking into the river. It was clear on the day we visited but it has been fenced off for safety and DOC monitor the track to ensure it is safe to use. 

If you get to this point and there is a slip turn around and go back to the start of the track as it will be too dangerous to cross and it is so steep that there is no safe way to circumvent the area...

Climbing up to the slip on the Pororari River Track

Rock slip zone on the Pororari River Track

The Pororari River swing-bridge is just visible from the slip 

New track at Pororari River Track slip site...

In the summer this river would be an excellent candidate for pack rafting as it is deep enough for the raft and would be a really nice paddle down to the mouth of the Pororari River. There are plenty of safe looking swimming holes as well so you could go for a dip if it was warm enough. 

Pororari River...this clear water was about 3 meters deep.....

You climb up a series of stairs to gain a higher river terrace as the gorge comes in close on this side of the valley making a river side track impossible...

Stairs on the Pororari River Track

Pororari River Track: on the plateau just before the swing bridge

There are a set of gates on the Pororari River Track at its junction with the Inland Pack Track to Waikori Road. This is to stop MTB riders trying to ride down the Pororari River Track and damaging it or colliding with trampers. 

Gates to stop cyclists using the Pororari River Track

The Pororari River Track floods in heavy rain......

MTB riders on the Paparoa Track are meant to follow the Inland Pack Track and it has been upgraded along here to allow them an easier riding experience. They have smoothed out the gradient and turned it into a true single track.

The Paparoa Track is a dual use track and both MTB riders and walkers are able to use it at all times of the year. I imagine it is a gnarly ride as it is a Grade 4 or expert level track which means some big hill climbs, steep downhills and places where you can easily dead yourself. 

Pororari River Track/Inland Pack Track junction

Paparoa Track cyclists follow the Inland Track....

...while trampers follow the Pororari River Track

There is a river terrace just before you reach the Pororari River swing bridge and we passed a number of both MTB riders and other trampers. There are a couple of makeshift seats here if you wanted to stop and admire the river. 

A section of the new Paparoa Track near the Pororari River swing-bridge

Looking down on the Pororari River from the Paparoa Track...

The forest around the swing bridge has taken a real beating at some time in the past...most of the trees have fallen over so the canopy is thin and open. Ex Cyclone Ita battered this whole coast back in 2014 and did a significant amount of damage. 

The Inland Pack Track was closed for nearly three years and then DOC suddenly announced it was to reopen after a major tidy up. It probably happened as they had already started talking about a new Great Walk through the Paparoa Ranges and they needed to use part of the track to that end. 

Walking along the Paparoa Track to the swing-bridge

The Pororari River swing bridge hove into view after 70 minutes of walking up the river, the bridge takes trampers over the Pororari River and onto the Inland Pack Track. The Inland Pack Track is a two day tramp from the mouth of the Punakaiki River to the mouth of the Fox River about 15 kilometers north of Punakaiki.

First view of the Pororari River swing-bridge...

On the Pororari River swing-bridge..

View of the Pororari River swing-bridge from the far bank...

Before the coastal road was built this was how people got along this difficult coast-line by going around the back of the worst bluffs and headlands. If you walk the track you get to camp at the well known Ballroom Overhang a massive cave like area near the Fox River. I am planning to come over to Punakaiki to walk the track sometime over the 2020/2021 tramping season. 

There was a member of the 7th (Westland) Weka Battalion waiting for us when we crossed the swing bridge. He didn't have a lot to say for himself but he was curious about our intentions...lunch or no lunch????

Hey buddy how's it goin'......give us some food!!!!

Jon taking photos of the Pororari River swing-bridge

Looking back across the Pororari River swing-bridge

Karen and I went for a walk up the Inland Pack track for just short of 500 meters to see what the track condition was like. As you can imagine it was a different kettle of fish than the Great Walk...it is a bit rough and ready with lots of downed trees. The highest point you cross on the way to the Fox River is only 200 meters a.s.l so it is easier tramping. It looked like it would be ok tramping conditions to walk to the Overhang about 12 kilometers or 6 hours walk north along the coast.. 

DOC should invest some money and turn this into another multi-day track to give you yet another tramping option in the Punakaiki area. Make it a three day tramp with another campsite by the Cave Creek resurgence.

If you wanted a small taste you could cross the Pororari River and follow the Inland Pack Track to Bullock Creek Road where you can exit back out onto SH6 just north of Punakaiki.

Heading up the Inland Pack Track on the true right of the Pororari River

Inland Pack Track near the Pororari River

Tramping up the Inland Pack Track near the Pororari River

About 500 meters up the Inland Pack Track from the Pororari River

The area up river from the swing-bridge is typical of the surrounding terrain...it is mostly flat with slightly raised river terraces covered with thick forest. The Paparoa Track continues off to the east along the Pororari River before climbing up into the main Paparoa Range about 10 km's distant.

View upriver from the Pororari River swing bridge

Jon crossing back over the Pororari River swing bridge

View down stream from the Pororari River swing bridge

Cyclists riding the Paparoa Track from the Pororari River swing bridge

Pororari River swing bridge from the river bed

After our little excursion up the Inland Pack Track we settled down on the bed of the Pororari River to have a bit of morning tea before our walk back to the start of the track. There is very little space around the bridge so the best place to rest has to be the river bed.

We had a snack and a brew (Karen brought a flask with her...) and watched all the new arrivals walking over the bridge and going selfie mad somewhere along its span. It was a nice sunny spot and not many sand-flies which is not always the case when you sit on a gravel river bed...

A nice view from our lunch spot at the Pororari River

Tasty oat bar for lunch at the Pororari River..not bad...

...washed down with tea thanks to Karen....

Wind blown forest around the Pororari River

After a half hour sitting on the river we packed up our gear and set off back to the start of the track. The sun had fully risen over the surrounding bluffs on the way back down the track so it was a lot warmer and brighter. 

We passed a lot more people on the homeward leg as it was getting into the early afternoon on the Saturday and a lot more people would have arrived in the area for the long weekend. It was lovely walking back down the track through the warm afternoon. 

Back on the Paparoa Track heading for Punakaiki....

We passed a few Dr Seuss trees aka Dracophyllum Traversii along the track...a unusual occurrence as you normally encounter these trees at much higher elevations in the South Island. They are called Dr Seuss trees because they look like the trees in The Lorax and other of his works. 

Dracophyllum Traversii along the Paparoa Track

Back on the Pororari River Track and heading for Punakaiki

Foot bridge on the Pororari River Track crossing a small cove

You have much better views of the river walking back out to Punakaiki for some reason...the turns of the track show wider vistas through the trees. You can also see further along the bluffs on the far side of the Pororari River. 

You have occasional views of the Pororari River from the track

Back at the slip on the Pororari River Track, West Coast

Karen doesn't much like me taking her photo when we are tramping...I get it I have never been much for having my picture taken either. I normally let her go first down the track and she is constantly jumping off the track so I can take a photo.

Sorry love... 

Karen being not so keen to be photographed...

There are massive house sized boulders in the Pororari River....

More Dr Seuss trees on the Pororari River Track

Sunshine lights up the limestone bluffs along the Pororari River Track

View to the west along the Pororari River Track

Karen and I both liked this beam of light shining through the foliage..it has an unearthly feel to it...or is it the light of a transporter beam from the USS Enterprise!!!!

....interesting light effect on the Pororari River Track..

  

We saw a number of people either canoeing, kayaking or paddle boarding up the Pororari River on our way back to the car. If you look closely you can see a couple of people in blue canoes just going around the bend in the river in the photo below. 

You can hire kayaks and paddle boards from Punakaiki Canoes near the Punakaiki Tavern...I would be keen to give it a go. I don't know how much it is but it would be fun paddling up this calm river and stopping on the sand banks to have a break or take some photos.

BTW: MTB biking and a kayak are my fall back plan for when my legs wont carry me tramping anymore...

Classic view of the Pororari River Valley from the track

Under the shade of  Nikau Palms on the Pororari River Track

Pororari River Track: close up of one of the Nikau Palms

Here is another kayak about a kilometer from the end of the Pororari River Track this dude had two companions with him. They had just re entered their boats after lifting the three kayaks over a snaggle of tree trunks across the middle of the river. 

Kayaker going up the Pororari River

The Nikau Palm trees become more common the closer to the coast you get...they have colonised the whole western coast of the South Island from Farewell Spit all the way down to near Greymouth. If you are walking the Heaphy Track from Kohaihai to Heaphy Hut they line both sides of the track for at least 14 kilometers and are the predominant tree species. 

Lovely light effects on the Pororari River Track

The western end of the Pororari River widens into a swamp

Here are more canoes and paddle boards on the last 50 meters of the Pororari River Track...this end of the river is almost a tidal estuary and wider than the rest of the river gorge. There are a lot of sandbanks (as seen here) scattered up and down the river that would make excellent spots to stop for a rest break. 

Near the Punakaiki end of the Pororari River Track

Paddle boarders and kayaks on the Pororari River, Punakaiki

We finally got to the Maori gateway across the track after about an hour of walking...this marks the official end of the Pororari River Track and is less than 300 meters from the track entrance at Punakaiki. 

The end of the Pororari River Track near Punakaiki

Detail of the Maori gateway on the Pororari River Track

Western end of Pororari River Track was once farmland...

All up our trip up the Pororari River had taken us approximately 3 hours with a 30 minute lunch break at the swing-bridge and a couple of short breaks while walking along the track. It was a lovely wee tramp with plenty of great scenery to occupy you and a worthwhile goal to reach at its end. 

If you wanted to do a slightly more interesting tramp you could walk up the Pororari River Track and then walk out via the Inland Pack Track to Waikori Road on the Punakaiki River. This would be slightly longer so add another 30 minutes to the total tramping time. The Punakaiki River and the Pororari River are only separated by about 2 kilometers so you can do a proper circuit if you wish. 

The end of the Pororari River Track at the Punakaiki car-park

I will be back in Punakaiki in February of 2021 as I am booked to walk the Paparoa Great Walk at that time. I will be walking from The Smoke-Ho track end to Punakaiki over four days. 

I am also tentatively planning a trip to walk the remainder of the Inland Pack Track possibly some time in October 2020. My main requirement for this trip is the resumption of the transport links between Westport and Greymouth as the two track ends are separated by about 12 kilometers. You also need good weather as the trip down Dilemma Creek Gorge and the Fox River is in the riverbed for most of the way.

I hope you will come back to see those adventures....cheers all!!!

Access: The Paparoa Track/Pororari River Track car-park is just before the bridge over the Pororari River at Punakaiki on SH6. There is space here for approximately 40 cars. 

Track Times: Paparoa Track/Pororari River Track is approximately 6 km's or 2-2.5 hours return from the car-park at Punakaiki. You can also follow the Paparoa Track to the car park at Waikori Road on the Punakaiki River. Pororari River to Waikori Road is approximately 3 km's or 1.5-2 hours.

Miscellaneous:The Pororari River Track connects to the new Paparoa Great Walk near the Pororari River swing-bridge. There are no facilities along this track section. Camping is permitted once over the Pororari River swing-bridge although camping sites are few and far between. Water from the rivers must be filtered, boiled or treated. The Inland Pack Track to the Fox River and Ballroom Overhang starts at the Pororari swing-bridge.