Monday, 8 June 2020

Punakaiki Series: IV of IV; Cape Foulwind Track

At Cape Foulwind near Westport

On the way home from our trip to Punakaiki we drove back via Westport-Reefton-Lewis Pass. Neither of us had been up the coastal road in a long time so we decided to drive that way to have a look at that stretch of the road/coastline.

One of the places we passed along the way was Cape Foulwind (about 8 kilometers south of Westport) so we decided to make the short diversion to visit.

Information panels at the start of the Cape Foulwind Walkway

Cape Foulwind juts out into the Tasman Sea just south of Westport...because of its location and because of the off shore islands there it has been the scene of a number of ship wrecks over the years. To try to combat this a series of lighthouses have been constructed on the highest point of the Cape to warn ships away from peril. 


Start of the northern end of the Cape Foulwind Walkway

There are a number of visitor attractions here...the lighthouse, a three hour return coastal walkway, a seal colony and a scenic reserve. We stopped at the northern end of the reserve close to the lighthouse and walked up the walkway to its base. 


The Cape Foulwind Lighthouse just south of Westport

We didn't venture far down the walkway but it looks like a nice wee walk from what we could see of it so we have already decided to stop here some time in the future to check it out. Anyway here is what the walk up to the lighthouse is like...



On the track to the Cape Foulwind Lighthouse

We were on our way back to Christchurch on the day we visited...we were only an hour into a long (six hour) journey back to Christchurch via Westport, Reefton and Lewis Pass so we opted for the shorter end of this track. From the car-park at the northern end of the Cape it is only a 15 minute walk to the lighthouse.


Map: Cape Foulwind just south of Westport, South Island, New Zealand

The local council and DOC have done a great job of restoring the native bush that once covered this headland. They have a representative mixture of all of the species of plants you would have found along this coast prior to European settlement. They provide some protection from the wind but be aware that this track is exposed to some extreme weather elements at times so be prepared. 


On the Cape Foulwind Walkway heading up to the lighthouse

The Cape Foulwind Walkway is to a high standard...not wheelchair friendly but just about to that level. It is a smooth, well benched track of compacted sand, rocks and fine pebbles.  It is initially steep but evens out when you get closer to the lighthouse.


View towards Westport and the Denniston Plateau from the Cape Foulwind Walkway
You can see the lighthouse right from the start of the track...it sits on the highest point on the Cape and has clear views up and down the coast for probably 30+ kilometers. There have been a number of lighthouses built here this is number three of three. The base of the first lighthouse still stands about 50 meters away from the current version...it is a geodesic point used for calibrating new maps of the area.

The track leads you right up the hill to the base of the lighthouse...from there it continues off to the south and down to the coast about 3 kilometer's away.


The Old Cape Foulwind lighthouse foundation and the modern version

Old Cape Foulwind Lighthouse foundation...near Westport

Cape Foulwind Walkway: geodetic survey plaque on the old foundations

Cape Foulwind Walkway: there is also a radio antennae on the high point

There is no direct access to the base of this lighthouse...you can get there if you want but it requires bashing through a gorse scrub land which we were not keen on. The Lighthouse is automatic so I imagine they want to limit public access so it doesn't get vandalised all the time.


Gorse encircles the Cape Foulwind Lighthouse

We saw quite a few native birds up here Weka, Bellbirds, Fantails and a number of different types of sea birds...the scenic reserve they have planted all along the walkway is thick so probably really good for nesting etc.


A Fantail we saw along the Cape Foulwind Walkway

We walked about 750 meters further along the walkway past the lighthouse..it was mostly flat and we stopped when it started to descend steeply towards the coast. 

The track at the southern end of the reserve follows the path of an old logging railway along the coast for a couple of kilometers. There is a car park, seal colony and scenic viewpoints along here with good views up and down the coast.


Cape Foulwind Walkway: heading south along the track

Looking south towards Punakaiki from the Cape Foulwind Walkway

There are a number of small off shore islands near the Cape called Black Reef and the Steeples...they are about a kilometer off shore so must pose quite a navigation problem when travelling up and down this coast. Im sure the locals exercise a lot of caution when cruising up the coast...who wants to be a modern day Robinson Crusoe....


Offshore islands at Cape Foulwind just south of Westport

Closer view of the off shore islands at Cape Foulwind

More off shore islands at Cape Foulwind south of Westport
The Cape Foulwind Lighthouse is surrounded by thick bush...

Cape Foulwind lighthouse power generator shed...

You get an excellent view of the coastline north of Westport from up at the top of Cape Foulwind. There are clear views of the mouth of the Buller River at Westport, the Denniston Plateau and the distant Lyell Range. In fact you can see right up the coast to Karamea and the start of Kahurangi National Park on a clear day. 

The Lyell Range is where the Old Ghost Road runs...it is a 3-5 day cycling/tramping track through some of the most rugged terrain in the South Island. I hear it is an awesome track...because it is a MTB ride it has really good gradients. It still sounds sketchy in places...some of it is Grade 4 riding so expert level!!! 

Obviously...I have it on my 'to do' bucket list...as a tramp...not a MTB ride!!! 


Cape Foulwind Walkway: looking north to Westport, the Denniston Plateau, Lyell Range & Karamea

Denniston was the most lucrative coal mine in the country at one time but it is abandoned now and has become a local tourism spot. You can walk up next to the old inclined railway onto the plateau where there are a number of historic buildings and the remains of the mines. 

The town was the setting for a famous New Zealand book The Denniston Rose not quite Lord of the Rings but it gets the same type of visitors as Hobbiton and Mt Doom/Mt Sunday. 

Looking north at Carters Beach settlement, Cape Foulwind

A trip to the top and back will take you about 30-40 minutes so it is worth stopping off to have a quick look. As I said earlier Karen and I will come back to visit sometime so we can trek all of the walkway...I will make sure to post it here.


The main road through Reefton where we stopped for lunch...


Cheers all!!!


Access: Follow SH6 (Punakaiki to Westport Road) turn off onto Wilsons Lead Road eight kilometers south of Westport and drive to Tauranga Bay Road. From Tauranga Bay Road go left to Seal Colony Road to access the southern end of the Cape Foulwind Walkway. Turn right to Lighthouse Road to access the Cape Foulwind Lighthouse and the northern terminus of the Walkway. 
Track Times: From the start of the track it takes approximately 30-40 minutes to visit the Lighthouse. To walk the whole Cape Foulwind Walkway takes 3 hours return to Lighthouse Road/Seal Colony Road.
Miscellaneous:There are toilets at the car-parks at both end of the Cape Foulwind Walkway at Seal Colony Road and Lighthouse Road. Cape Foulwind is exposed to the elements (they come off the Tasman Sea from Australia and the Antarctic...) so make sure you are equipped for all conditions. There are no toilets or potable water sources between the two track ends. 


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