Cobb River Valley, Kahurangi National Park, 11-13 September 2020: Day 2-3

Spending time around Fenella Hut...

I spent two nights at Fenella Hut on my recent visit to the Cobb Valley as I wanted to spend time exploring the surrounding area while I was there. In particular I wanted to visit the well known tarn on a nearby ridge and the sub ridges that come off Pt. 1186,  itself a route to the top of Xenicus Peak.

View of Aorere Peak from Fenella Hut

Xenicus Peak really dominates this end of the valley as it looms over Fenella Hut, Lake Cobb and all the sub valleys in the area. It is not particularly high at 1500 odd meters due to its striking features and in this location it looks much higher than it really is.

Xenicus Peak from the veranda at Fenella Hut

On the last day of my trip I headed back down the Cobb Valley to start the long trip home to Christchurch. It is much faster walking down the valley and I made it to Trilobite Hut in just over four hours shaving a good hour off the first days walking time. The Cobb Valley Track seems flat but actually it is a steady climb all the way from the carpark at Trilobite Hut to Fenella Hut at the other end of the valley.

In the Cobb Tent Camp clearing heading home...

I stopped on my way out of the Cobb Valley to walk up the Lake Peel Track to Myttons Hut about a kilometer from the car park. The trip there and back took me about an hour in total and was surprising good as there were masses of native birds in the bush around Myttons Hut. 

Following the Lake Peel Track to Myttons Hut in the Cobb Valley

After that is was back over Cobb Ridge to the power station and the start of the 600+km trip back down the coast to my home. An excellent trip in many ways and definitely a place I will return too some time in the future. Anyway lets take up the action on day two of my trip at Fenella Hut in the Upper Cobb Valley...

Day 2: A excursion to Fenella Tarn

The day started in a leisurely manner ...as I did not need to head out on track to the next hut I didn't get up till after 8 am and spent the next hour and a half eating breakfast and spending time around the hut. I even relit the fire so that we had some warmth in the hut over breakfast. My hut mates had planned a day long trip to Xenicus Peak while I was going to stay closer to the hut. 

It was another beautiful day with light wind, sunny and perfectly clear skies...

On the track to Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

Map: Upper Cobb Valley/Fenella Hut site

We all set off at roughly the same time and headed up towards the tarn just north west of Fenella Hut. The tarn actually has no name but I will be referring to it as Fenella Tarn from this point forward. The ladies quickly hared off into the distance as I was taking photos and having a poke around as this is the first time I have ever been here.

On the track to the Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

There is a nice track across the swampy tussock fields near Fenella Hut before climb up two successive ridges to get to the area where the tarn is located. You need to stay on the track as this is an old silted up tarn and is very boggy and potentially muddy. 

Crossing the tussock basin to get to Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

Mt Cobb and the Peel Range from near Fenella Hut

The tarn sits on top of this ridge near Fenella Hut

On the track to Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

It was cold overnight so frozen puddles, Cobb Valley

View down the Peel Range and Cobb Ridge from near Pt.1186

Once on the ridge between Fenella Hut and the tarn you have some excellent views down into the Upper Cobb Valley. It was a lovely clear and sunny day so even at 9 am it was probably 18-20 degrees if you stayed out of the wind. You could see Fenella Hut sitting on its knoll in the distance and it was obvious from here what an excellent spot it is for a hut. 

You could also see the karst bluffs and outcrops on this side of Xenicus Peak and the distant bulk of Aorere Peak resting to the north. 

Fenella Hut and the Locket Range from near Pt. 1186

View of the Cobb Valley from near Pt.1186

Classic Karst country from Xenicus Peak to Aorere, Kahurangi NP

Aorere Peak from near Fenellas Tarn, Cobb Valley

On the ridge between Fenella Hut and Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

Once on the tarn ridge you get great views of the Lockett Range on one side of the Cobb River and the Cobb & Peel ranges on the other. It looks like a fairly easy climb to get up on the Lockett Range from the hut and I know parties will walk all the way down the range to Lake Sylvester and the hut at the far end of the reservoir.

Pt.1390 on the Lockett Range from Fenella Tarn

Fenella Hut from near Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

Closer view of Fenella Hut from near the Tarn

The Fenella Tarn sits on a area of high ground on the northern edge of Pt. 1186..it is not visible until you crest the ridge. The tarn is really beautiful and is ringed with some craggy rock bluffs and scattered alpine forest. It ranges in depth from a meter to 3-4 meters and would be 10 meters wide at its widest point. 

It looks very appealing as a place to swim but it is perishing cold as I discovered when I put my hand into it. It is just like ice water and even in summer I dont think it would be warm enough except for the briefest of dips...no sitting in here contemplating life!!!

The last rise before Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi NP

Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi NP

The Lockett Range from Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

I have seen some videos on You Tube of people swimming here in summer and they all yell, scream or yelp when they hit the water.. please note that you have been warned!!!

Jon Moake at Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

Fenella Tarn with Aorere Peak in the background

If you climb up the ridgeline to the north of the tarn you get a spectacular view of the bluffs on this side of Xenicus Peak. It looks like some particularly difficult terrain so is probably best left to the climbers and mountaineers amongst us to explore. You also have an unimpeded view of 2/3 of Aorere Peak (the only parts you cannot see are the lower slopes) in the head of Burgoo Stream. It is all karst which is a particular type of limestone featuring deep holes, dips, cracks and crevice's.

Rough terrain between Xenicus and Aorere Peaks, Cobb Valley

Aorere Peak dominates the Upper Burgoo Stream...

You can see the northern side of Pt.1186 which is an outlier ridge of Xenicus...you can get to the top of Xenicus by following a rock cairn route over Pt. 1186 and up a ridge bordering Lake Cobb to the summit. If you are contemplating this route be aware that the route past Pt. 1186 has a couple of hairy spots that must be tackled correctly or you will be using that PLB you have been carrying for the last 5 years. 

My hut mates headed up this way as they had been to Xenicus once before but I was not suitably equipped to go beyond the tarn so did not join them despite the offer. I watched them make their way up the slope before they disappeared over the crest of Pt. 1186. 

I didn't see them again until 7 hours later....

The rough terrain on the rear of Pt.1186, Cobb Valley

A cairned track leads to the summit of Pt.1186, Cobb Valley

My hut mates near the top of Pt.1186, Cobb Valley

Pt. 1186 from just above Fenella's Tarn, Cobb Valley

I climbed up the ridge to the north of the tarn as far as I could and sat in the sun for about 10 minutes looking at the scenery. There is a good view of the whole Cobb Valley almost right down to near the reservoir...I am sure that you would be able to clearly see it from the top of Pt. 1186. It was warm out of the wind but its quite breezy up here so take something to break the wind.

The whole Cobb Valley from near Pt.1186

I could also look down into the Burgoo Stream watershed from my perch and I noticed another rock cairn track heading off in that direction. I have no idea where it takes you but my guess would be down into the Burgoo Valley so you can tramp to the bottom of Aorere.

Good view of Aorere Peak from near Fenellas Tarn

A cairned track leads to Burgoo Stream, Cobb Valley

There is a good aerial view of Fenella Tarn from up on this ridge...you can see all four corners of the tarn and this emphasizes how big it actually is. Another place would be the rocky Tor on the south side of the tarn but use caution when climbing there as the bluff on this side of the tarn is easily 20 meters high and therefore dangerous. 

Fenella Tarn and the ridge to Pt.1186, Cobb Valley

Smaller tarns near Fenella Tarn, Cobb Valley

After 20 minutes up by Fenella Tarn I set off back to the hut down the same track...I had only taken my camera and jacket with me so I really didn't have any other choice. I have subsequently learnt that you can follow a rock cairn track down to Lake Cobb and from there back to Fenella Hut. Something to investigate the next time I come up here as well as climbing to the top of Pt. 1186....

Mountain Neinei on the track to Fenella Hut

On the ridge between Fenella Tarn and Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley

I walked over the first flat tussock area and then went to explore a ridge heading from there to the south and overlooking the tussock field Fenella Hut sits in. 

Tussock field near Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley

Waingaro Peak from the tussock flats at Fenella Hut

It is probably 30 odd meters higher than the surrounding area so you can see the hut in close detail. There was a small scratch campsite halfway down the ridge where someone has obviously camped in the past...it would be a good spot for setting up a tent and is allowed provided you dont light any fires.

If you decided to camp up here do not use the old firepit someone built as you are liable to set fire to Kahurangi National Park and you will not be popular with the kids at school if you do that.... 

Low ridge to the west of Fenella Hut

Scratch campsite on the ridge to west of Fenella Hut

Looking down on the track to Fenella Tarn from the ridge...

Fenella Tarn is next to the rock peak in middle photo

There was still a lot of frost and frozen water pools around the track as it had been cold overnight. I like how the water has formed ice crystals on the tussock along the side of this small stream...

Ice on tussock next to stream near Fenella Tarn

Fenella Hut water supply comes from here...

Walking back up to Fenella Hut, Kahurangi NP

When I got back to the hut I spent about an hour doing some hut chores...cutting a huge pile of firewood, drying out some tinder and kindling in the sun, sweeping the hut and wiping down the surfaces. 

I had the hut to myself all afternoon so I spent most of it laying on a mattress in the sun on the veranda. Every so often I would make a brew or fix something to eat. I read all the magazines in the hut as well as a couple of short stories on my new Kindle. 

An idyllic way to spend an afternoon really...

Drying kindling on the Fenella Hut veranda

Plenty of splits in the woodbox at Fenella Hut...thanks Jon

There is another wood box in the Fenella Hut wet room

The kitchen and dining table at Fenella Hut

Pits set up in Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley

Jon outside Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley

View of Aorere Peak from Fenella Hut

Fenella Hut in the late afternoon, Cobb Valley

My hut mates didn't arrive back at the hut until after 4 pm...they had continued up past Pt. 1186 before dropping down to Lake Cobb and climbing up to the tarns on the southern side of that lake. Then they walked back down to Cobb Hut and followed the main track back up to Fenella Hut. 

That is a long day trip...but indicative of what you can do in this locale. 

Jon inside Fenella Hut after cutting firewood

There are many tramps like this in the area you pick a point and just bush bash there and back. I will do some trips like this the next time I stay at Fenella...I'll pack in 3-4 days food so I can spend an extended period here. 

The main window at Fenella Hut slides open...

Eating afternoon tea at Fenella hut

It was just the four of us in Fenella Hut once again...I was surprised that nobody came in on the Saturday but there was a forecast for wind and rain over the next couple of days so that probably put people off. The ladies cooked a big pot of Lentil Casserole and some rice for dinner so Jon got to enjoy some of this bounty and it was damn delicious. 

It was an early night on the Saturday we were all tucked up in our pits by 9 pm and everyone was asleep by 9.30. 

Day 3: Heading back to Trilobite Hut

Day three dawned a bit overcast and cool but it was still good conditions for the walk back to my car at the Trilobite Hut carpark. We were all up and getting about our business by 7 am and after a quick feed of cream of wheat and coffee I first was out the door and tramping towards Cobb Hut. 

Day 3: Dawn at Fenella Hut, Kahurangi National Park

On the Cobb Valley Track next to Fenella Hut

Stone path on the way down to Cobb Hut

I headed back down the track I had followed to the hut on day one....easier walking going down valley is it is all tending down hill. I was surprised by the fast time I was making which really proves that this track is on a bit of a slope. 

Map; Cobb Valley, Fenella Hut to Chaffey Hut

Pt.1186 to the south west of Fenella Hut

Cobb Valley Track: in the forest near Fenella hut

Bridge half way between Fenella and Cobb Huts, Cobb Valley Track

I stopped on the edge of the plateau Fenella Hut sits on and took some photos of the valley and of the cascade running down the western side of the track. It falls through a series of rocks piles and eventually joins the main Cobb River down by Cobb Hut. 

Upper Cobb Valley from the Cobb Valley Track

Xenicus Peak from the Cobb Valley Track

Large Mountain Neinei trees in the Upper Cobb Valley

Lake Cobb will be one of the places I visit the next time I come up here it can be accessed by a short track from Cobb Hut and climbs up to a gap between Xenicus Peak and Mt Cobb. It is about 750 meters from Cobb Hut up a steep climb....a bit too far away for a side trip when I had that massive drive back to Christchurch ahead of me. 

Lake Cobb is directly ahead in the Upper Cobb Valley

Stream feeding into the Cobb River, Cobb Valley Track

Crossing the open area next to Cobb Hut

Last view of Cobb Hut, Cobb Valley Track

I stopped for a couple of minutes to talk to the two hunters I meet on day one...they were at Cobb Hut and just packing up to head out to their car as well. No deer though they saw a number in the distance and too far away to take a shot. 

Just past Cobb Hut you can see a whole exposed reef of asbestos sticking up out of the ground. They used to mine asbestos in the Upper Takaka River up to the 1960's. The old mine is still there and is about 30 minutes down the track from Asbestos Cottage. Asbestos was a major export for New Zealand at one stage but it is not widely used anymore due to it various health issues.

An exposed seam of asbestos next to the Cobb Valley Track

The section of track between Cobb Hut and the Cobb Tent Camp seemed to fly by...it only took me 25 minutes to cover the distance to the Cobb Tent Camp. I had the track to myself once again and only occasionally saw the two hunters and their dog behind me. Eating all my food over the previous two days probably removed a kilo and a half of weight which always helps with the return journey...

On the Cobb Valley Track enroute to Cobb Tent Camp

Snow pole along the Cobb Valley Track near Cobb Hut

Moss covered Mountain Beech in the Upper Cobb Valley

The rivers and streams were much lower on the Sunday as there had been no rain for the last three days...the river crossings are usually easy but most of them just had a trickle in the bottom of their bed.

Cobb Valley Track: crossing a small stream near Cobb Tent Camp

Bridge over the Cobb River near the Cobb Tent Camp

There was no one at the Cobb Tent Camp as I passed through, I stopped for a short break and a drink and then continued on down the valley heading for Chaffeys Hut the next waypoint on my outward journey to the car. 

Cobb Tent Camp, Cobb Valley Track

The picnic table and fire pit at Cobb Tent Camp

Meat safe in the trees at Cobb Tent Camp

I spooked a deer just down valley from the Cobb Tent Camp..it looked like a Fallow deer to me but I got only the quickest glimpse as it darted into the bush. I didn't hear any shots behind me so obviously it scarpered before the hunters came into the clearing or they would have bagged it. 

On the Cobb Valley Track past Cobb Tent Camp

Last view of Cobb Tent Camp, Upper Cobb Valley

The Cobb Valley Track is in good condition...dry, well drained and firm but there are a couple of minor muddy spots where the track crosses streams or swampy ground. The spot in the photo below was the worst along the whole track and as you can see it was hardly note worthy.

The muddiest spot on the whole Cobb Valley Track

Exposed iron deposit(?) in the Upper Cobb Valley

On the Cobb Valley Track near Pt. 1503

I made good progress heading down the valley helped I think by the cool conditions which made walking more comfortable. It was that same transition between grassland, tussock field interspaced with forest as you climbed up and over the ridges and moraine walls which line the valley. 

Grassland to forest transition in the Upper Cobb Valley

View down the Cobb Valley from near Pt. 1512

Last view of Xenicus Peak, Cobb River Valley

Nice benched track on the Cobb Valley Track

Someone has been cutting back the Cobb Valley Track...

One of many DOC 200 pest tracks along the Cobb Valley Track

Before I knew it I was crossing the big terminal moraine wall near Chaffeys Hut and heading down to Chaffeys Stream which is only a couple of hundred meters from the hut...

Crossing a moraine wall near Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley Track

Bridge over Chaffey Stream near Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley

Hannah Creek 40 meters from Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley

I arrived at Chaffeys Hut after 2.5 hours...this is about 2/3 of the time it took me to walk from here to Fenella Hut a couple of days previously. As I said before you make much better time heading down the valley so there must be quite a pronounced tilt to the land. 

There was a Kiwi couple from the North Island staying in Chaffey Hut and I had a talk to them for about 5 minutes about their plans and where they had come from etcetera as I had an early lunch of crackers, cheese and salami.  After a 10 minute break I packed up my gear and headed out on the final track section back down to Trilobite Hut. 

Back at an occupied Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley Track

Back in forest near Chaffey Hut, Cobb Valley Track

Map: Cobb Valley, Chaffey Hut to Trilobite Hut Carpark

The weather was starting to clear as I walked this last section of the track...the clouds broke up to revel blue skies and sunny weather. It was lovely walking this last section in improving weather and I enjoyed the warming sun immensely.

View of the lower Cobb Valley from near Pt. 876

Cobb Valley Track: a terminal moraine between Pt. 876 and Pt. 845

There are a ton of good campsites on this section of the track either in the forest edge or along the banks of the Cobb River. There were some lovely looking swimming holes in the river...too cold in September and October but I bet they are magnificent in late January in the height of summer...

A gorge area on the Cobb River near Myttons Creek

Back over Myttons Creek bridge, Cobb Valley Track

Deep in the Matagouri near Pt. 845, Cobb Valley Track

The final couple of kilometers of the Cobb Valley Track just flew by..it is easy walking at the end of the tramp across all that grassland and river flats. I passed a number of people heading into Fenella Hut and for day trips to Chaffeys Hut and the Cobb Tent Camp. The Cobb Valley doesn't strike me as a day walk location...the access is too awful for that but if you were camping down around Trilobite Hut there are many suitable routes you could try. 

Looking east to the Cobb Ridge, Cobb Valley Track 

A possible campsite near Pt. 845 from the Cobb Valley Track

Its all forest travel from here...Cobb Valley Track

I crossed the last big clearing near Pt.845 and then it was all forest travel from there to the track end....

Crossing a spur near Pt. 874, Cobb Valley Track

More possible campsites 30 minutes from Trilobite Hut

If you were visiting Trilobite Hut I recommend you walk at least as far as the gorge in the Cobb Valley near Pt.874. There are a number of paths down to the river and there are a couple of excellent and secluded swimming holes along this stretch of the riverside track. 

Passing a gorge in the Cobb River close to Trilobite Hut

Cobb Valley Track: in the last section of forest...

Cobb Valley Track: back at the cattle fence...

 I soon found I was back at the start of the track in the mature virgin forest around Trilobite Hut. It is a nice scenic spot and could warrant a bit of exploration for those with time to spare. The forest was alive with the sound of birds...I heard many species calling out to each other. 

You can just see Trilobite Hut through the trees, Cobb Valley Track

Massive Totora tree near the end of Cobb Valley Track

The end of the Cobb Valley Track at Trilobite Hut car park

I was please to see the Surfer safe and sound when I got back to the car park..vandalism would be unlikely this far from a paved road but you can never be sure these days. There are some real bastards out there....and it had been parked there for nearly three days.

The cars have been breeding at Trilobite Hut car park.....

I stopped on the way back up Cobb Valley Road to walk to Myttons Hut so that I could add it to my game bag for this trip. I have written a separate post about this side trip...it was surprisingly good as the forest around Myttons Hut is chock full of native birds. I have honestly never seen so many Tui in one area before...they were flitting all through the forest. 

I visited Mytton's Hut on the way home...

Then it was back down that God awful road to the information shelter up on Cobb Ridge where I stopped to sign the book and have a break. It was really blowing a gale up there as there was a North Westerly coming in. 

I had to negotiate past several cars on the trip back down to the Cobb Power Station and nearly ended a stupid motorbike rider who was blasting up that narrow gravel road at about 60 kmph. He was damn lucky I was crawling down the road at about 20 kmph. I personally thought him yelling at me and gesturing in a less than friendly manner was cheeky given his own transgressions. I also had to pass a 1.5 ton light truck on a stretch of road no more than 3 meters wide...that sucked taters!!! 

Not a road for campervans obviously....

Last view of the Cobb Reservoir from Cobb Ridge Information Shelter

I have to reiterate just how terrible the Cobb Dam Road is...you must take extreme caution when using it and expect the unexpected. Poor roads are the horror you sometimes need to face to visit these iconic and beautiful spots...

The Cobb Valley Power Station:

I stopped at the Cobb River Power Station on my way out of the valley...there are a couple of car parks here if you want to stop for a gander. The station was built in the early 1950's and was one of the first hydro power stations in the country. Even today it generates enough power for both Takaka and Motueka. 

The Upper Takaka River is really wild looking...It is deeply incised into the surrounding hills, rocky and full of gorges and looks like it could be a real beast in heavy rain. 

The Takaka River from near the Cobb Power Station

The station itself is built of brick and concrete and has a number of turbines fed by water shooting down the intake pipe from Cobb Dam about 200 meters higher. They must have been running the station as there was a ton of water shooting out of the outtake doors on the side of the building. The area was full of the sound of rushing water, machinery and the crackle of electricity. 

Intake pipe enters the Cobb Power Station

The electricity is carried from here along a set of high tension lines which go over the top of the surrounding hill ranges. They go up over Takaka Hill to join the national grid outside Mouteka and Nelson. 

A great number of power stations were built in the late 1940's and 1950's as a means of providing jobs for returned veteran's of WWII and Korea and to power the growing industrial base New Zealand was building at that time. Others built at that time include Tekapo A, Matai Dam and several on the Waikato, Waitaki and Tongariro Rivers. 

Cobb Valley Road passes to the left of the power station

Cobb Power Station is unmanned...so plenty of cameras, gates and barriers!!!

Another excellent tramping adventure finished...I really enjoyed my time in the Cobb Valley and look forward to a return in short order. On my next trip I will visit Lake Sylvester and Lake Sylvester Hut and walk up the Lake Peel Track and camp next to the lake or even walk into Balloon Hut on the Tablelands. 

I would also like to re visit Fenella Hut and do a day trip to Xenicus Peak or up Mt Waingaro but as you know...many places to visit and limited time, finance and advancing age may intervene. I  think you should all add a trip to the Cobb Valley to your 'to do list' immediately...you will not be disappointed.

Cheers all...see you out there sometime!!!

Access: Turn off SH 60 at Upper Takaka. Drive 35 km's past the power station to the Cobb Reservoir. Follow the road to the far end of Cobb Reservoir and the carpark at Trilobite Hut. The Cobb Valley Track starts right next to the car park.

Track Times: From Trilobite Hut its is 1-1.5 hours to Chaffey Hut. Chaffey Hut to Cobb Tent Camp is 1.5 hour, Cobb Tent Camp to Cobb Hut is 1 hour and Cobb Hut to Fenella Hut is 30 minutes. Total of 4.5-5 hours from the road end to Fenella Hut
Hut Details: Trilobite Hut: Serviced, 16 bunks, wood burner, woodshed, toilet, water from tank, Chaffey Hut: Basic, 4 bunks, water from stream, open fire, woodshed, toilet; Cobb Tent Camp: Basic (historic canvas tent hut), 3 mattresses, water from stream, fire pit, toilet, meat safe; Cobb Hut: Standard, 4 bunks, water from stream, open fire, woodshed, toilet; Fenella Hut: Serviced, 12 bunks, water from tank, wood burner, woodshed, toilet 

Miscellaneous: Cobb Valley Road is long, narrow, winding gravel and extreme care is needed when using it. Do not visit if there has been a major wind/rain/snow event as the road/track will be impassable.