Winter Series 2021: Lake Daniell: Lewis Pass National Reserve: 11-12 June 2021

 A winter tramp to Lake Daniell...

I really felt like going out for a walk at the end of last week and after arranging to take Friday off I shot over to the Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve and walked into Manson-Nichols Hut at Lake Daniell for a night. The hut at Lake Daniell is able to be booked right through the year so after securing my bunk I set off. I would have stayed for two nights but the hut was fully booked for the Saturday night. 

The Silver Surfer parked at Marble Hill Campsite, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

The Lake Daniell Track is about 8.4 kilometers (2-3 hours) and it is a moderate to easy track with a few small hills to climb but mostly lovely flat track. It has been substantially improved over the years so it is now a good durable surface with bridges over all the main streams. Karen is still out of action after her bike accident so I was tramping by myself. 

On the Lake Daniell Track, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

The lake is lovely at all times of the year but it is especially good in summer as it gets warm enough to swim in the shallow water. It is surrounded by low hills on all sides with mature Beech Forest right up to the shoreline. There is a 20 bunk hut here and a large campsite with space on the flats and in the trees for about 10-15 tents. 

Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

 This was my third visit in the last nine months as I came up here by myself in November 2020 and with Karen in December 2020. It was a great wee trip and the lake is a good place to visit over winter with a easy track and a comfortable hut to stay in. So...lets have another look at the Lake Daniell Track and the Manson-Nichols Hut. 

Marble Hill Campsite to Lake Daniell: 

The track starts and finishes at Marble Hill campsite just off SH 7 about five kilometers short of Springs Junction. There is a spacious carpark at the end of the campsite and a trampers shelter you can use for those last minute packing tasks. 

Shelter at start of the Lake Daniell Track, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

It is 8.4 kilometers or 2-3 hours from Marble Hill to the hut at Lake Daniell. 

Map: Marble Hill Campsite to Lake Daniell

Arriving at the Sluice Box, Lake Daniel Track

The first 400 meters is through Red Beech to the Sluice Box a contraction of the Maruia River with a box girder bridge leading to the main track. The water is super deep here as the river is squeezed from 30 meters wide to just five meters wide. It was running gin clear and looked damn cold and menacing...don't ever go swimming here...it is very, very dangerous!!!!

The bridge over the Sluice Box, Lake Daniel Track

Very deep and very cold water in the Sluice Box

New sign at the Sluice Box...naughty MTB riders!!!!

From the Sluice Box you walk around a ridge coming down from Pt. 771 and then follow alongside the Alfred River for a kilometer. If you are heading for Pell Stream Hut one of the fords to the old Pell Stream 4 W/D track starts just into the forest on the true left of Alfred Stream. Take care if trying to cross down here as the current in the lower Alfred can be strong and it empties into the dangerous Maruia River. 

On the Lake Daniel Track next to the Maruia River

Looking down on Alfred Stream from the Lake Daniel Track

Lake Daniell Track follows the Alfred River to start...

New sill in the Alfred River, Lewis Pass scenic Reserve

After about 20 minutes you descend down to the first of two large clearings in the forest. You can get down to the river to resupply with water here as there are a couple of places with paths to the river. Both of the flats look like they got plastered by the recent heavy rain as there is a ton of flood debris along the river bank and piles of logs etc. out in the middle of the flats. 

Plenty of boardwalk on the Lake Daniel Track

Crossing the first flat on the Lake Daniel Track

The Alfred River was running clear and shallow....

The next 20 minutes is spent walking along near the river as you climb up over the first or lower gorge in the Alfred River. The track winds through a mix of Beech and Podocarp forest with some huge trees lining both sides of the track. You get the occasional peek at the river down in the Gorge but for the most part the sound of running water is the only thing to tell of the rivers presence. 

The famous tree swing on the Lake Daniel Track

The forest is a mix of Beech and Podocarps, Lake Daniel Track

There are long sections of boardwalk over bogs, Lake Daniel Track

There are a number of side streams crossing the main track all of which are bridged now so you will cross a total of 14 bridges on this walk. The first of 13 wooden foot bridges is half way between river flat one and two....

First of twelve streams you cross on the Lake Daniel Track

The second river flat is the smaller of the two and just past it you start the climb up to the defunct Pell Stream Lookout. I say defunct as the trees are too big for you to see anything. The Alfred River is eating into the river terrace along here and every time I come up here I find a new re routed section of the track....

Near river flat two on the Alfred River....

Lake Daniel Track: a mix of forest and river flats...

There is another river access point at the base of the climb up around the main Alfred River gorge. You can go down onto some river bed and look both ways along the Alfred River. This is the higher ford point for the track to Pell Stream...the 4 W/D track runs along the top of the low ridge on the other side of the river.

At the Alfred River...start of climb to Pell Stream Lookout

From the Alfred River you climb up and around the main gorge on a series of ascending river terraces along the true right of the river. It is a relatively gentle climb for about the next twenty minutes up to the Troll Bridge. 

Climbing to a higher terrace on the Lake Daniel Track

There are long areas of Goblin Forest...Lake Daniel Track

Lake Daniel Track...moss covered tree stump

Jon says the Lake Daniel Track is O.K!!!

On the Lake Daniell Track above the Alfred Gorge...

The Troll Bridge is nearly at the half way point between Marble Hill campsite and Lake Daniell. From the bridge it is 4.3 kilometers to the lake and 4.1 kilometers to the road-head. I see they have put a new sign on the bridge urging you to not feed the Troll aka Woderwick the Weka who hangs about in these parts.

At the Troll Bridge...Lake Daniel Track

Troll Bridge is close to the halfway point...Lake Daniel Track

There is a long section of boardwalk just past Troll Bridge...

 The Pell Stream Lookout with its view of nothing is the exact middle point...it is just 200 meters further up the track from the Troll Bridge. I imagine it once had a view of Pell Stream but the trees are mature along here and have blocked out the view. I always stop here for a longer break and this day was no exception...I had a drink and snack while I perused my map....

Pell Stream Lookout, Lake Daniell Track

The Pell Stream seat is the Lake Daniell Track half way point...

The first of three bridges past Pell Stream Seat, Lake Daniell Track

Past Pell Stream Lookout you are gradually descending back down to the upper reaches of the Alfred River. The track is heading down towards the confluence of Fraser Stream and the Alfred River where it turns up a side valley towards the lake. 

On the descent down to Fraser Stream, Lake Daniel Track

The Alfred River near Pt. 1086, Lake Daniel Track

Bridge three on the descent to Fraser Stream, Lake Daniel Track

There is a flat section down by the Fraser Stream-Alfred confluence with some decent looking camping spots before you climb back onto the debris field that blocked the valley and formed Lake Daniell behind it. 

Lake Daniel Track: approaching Fraser Stream 

The bridge over Fraser Stream, Lake Daniell Track

Climbing up to the debris fan near Fraser Stream

There was a huge landslide near here a couple of thousand years ago which dumped a pile of rock and soil right across the valley. It blocked the valley and allowed Lake Daniell to build up behind it. Fraser Stream is the outlet river from the lake and over the eons it has slowly eroded a path down to the level of the main river. 

Mixed Totora/Matai forest around the Fraser Stream confluence

The last kilometer to Lake Daniell is flat forest track...

Once you get to the top of the debris field you have about 1.5 kilometers to walk to get to Lake Daniell and the hut located there. It is flat for much of the way and the track can be a bit boggy so they have installed a lot of boardwalk through here to stop you damaging the delicate plants.

Open beech forest along the end of the Lake Daniell Track

The Hollow Log close to Lake Daniell

When you get to the point where the Fraser Stream is next to the track you are about 700 meters from the hut. Travel along this part of the Lake Daniell Track is swift and it takes about 30 minutes to cover the 1.5 kilometers from the edge of the debris field to the lake.

Lake Daniell Track: Fraser Stream runs next to the track

Alpine bog near the lake end of the Lake Daniell Track

The forest opens as you approach Lake Daniell

Lake Daniell Track: boardwalk near the Manson Nichols Hut

Eventually you get down near the lake outlet and the track turns hard right along the edge of the lake for about another 200 meters. The forest opens up as you get closer to the lake and you get the occasional glimpse of water through the forest edge. 

You can just see Lake Daniell through the trees

Ephitytes on a tree near Lake Daniell

A recent wind fall tree near the hut...Lake Daniell Track

Atawai Kohanga/Manson Nichols Hut, Lake Daniel Track

I left the Marble Hill Campsite at 10.45 and got to the hut at around 1 pm so it took me just over two hours to cover the distance. It was great walking through the forest as it has a really remote feeling to it even though it is relatively close to the main highway. 

At Kohanga Atawai/Manson-Nichols Hut:

This was my third visit to the new hut at Lake Daniell and the seventh time I have visited Lake Daniell. I wasn't expecting the hut to be busy in winter but it had seven people including myself booked into the hut on the night I stayed. This is just under half full...

Manson-Nichols Hut, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

 I was the only person at the hut when I arrived although I had passed six people heading out along the track. I usually have a brew before starting my camp chores but it was cold at Lake Daniell and I knew we would need the fire so I spent about 30 minutes chopping up firewood and stacking it in the hut. That way I didn't need to keep taking my boots off and putting them back on...

Looking out to Lake Daniell from the track end...

Campsite cooking shelter at Manson-Nichols Hut

There is still plenty of firewood up at the hut...the shed was half full and there is still one stack of wood out the back of the hut clearing. The woodshed really needs a wooden floor as a lot of the firewood was damp from water rising up out of the soil. I did a bit of picking through the woodpile to get enough dry wood for the night. 

Pile of firewood drying at Manson-Nichols hut

Half full wood shed at Manson-Nichols Hut

After sorting out the firewood I had a clean up and went inside for a well deserved cuppa and some lunch. I had a Coupland's chicken wrap (brought on the way out of town) and some tomato soup and afterwards I selected my bunk for the night. There are two rooms at Manson Nichols one has eight individual bunks and the other has two six person platforms. I took the platform as I figured the other people staying in the hut that night were probably a group. 

Manson-Nichols Hut: interior of the living space...

Manson-Nichols Hut: interior showing the wood burner and bench space

After I sorted my kit out I went for a walk around the surrounding area....out onto the dock for the prerequisite photo of the hut and around the edge of the clearing the hut sits in. DOC have really tidied the area up since the last time I was here...all the detritus of the rebuild has been removed. It was lightly raining for most of the afternoon so I was glad I set out early and got to the hut dry. 

The dock at Lake Daniell from Manson-Nichols Hut

Manson-Nichols Hut at Lake Daniell

Out flow to Fraser Stream at Lake Daniell

The classic view of Manson-Nichols Hut from the dock

The hut was actually colder inside than out so I actually lit the fire around 2.30 to try and warm the place up a bit. It didn't take long to get a bit of warmth in the building as it has awesome insulation and double glazed windows to retain heat. 

....the firebox ablaze in Manson Nichols Hut

My hut mates started to arrive around 4 pm...it was a couple with two young daughters who were a real charm to have around. The mother was from Alberta in Canada and the father a Kiwi from Hokitika where they lived. The kids were super excited to be at the lake and looked to be having a great time running around and exploring. The girls were four and six and the family are the kind of people this hut was really made to cater for. 

Lake Daniell looking towards the northern lake edge

There are picnic tables and a fire pit at Lake Daniell 

Later in the evening another couple arrived who were friends of the family and that was our full crew for the evening. They had set off from Nelson at around 1 pm and arrived at the hut sometime around 7pm after it had got dark. The Lake Daniell Track is one that can be walked in the dark provided you have a decent headtorch....

Seating on the exterior of Manson-Nichols Hut

Manson-Nichols Hut: the separate mud room....

It was a nice night at the hut....we chatted from time to time as you do but mostly the other group played cards while I sipped my Pinot Noir and read a Flashman book on my Kindle. I had the window open in my bunkroom and after everyone went to bed around 10pm I heard both a Kiwi and a Morepork in the clearing around the hut. 

Heading back to Marble Hill:

I had a lazy start to the day on the Saturday...I didn't get up until after 8 am and I didn't even leave the hut until after 10 am. My hut mates were having pancakes and bacon for breakfast while I had one of those O Meals (Spaghetti with meat sauce) that are like a MRE entree. They are good eats and I can recommend them as they are all filling and tasty...

OMeals Spaghetti with Sauce....good breakfast eats!!!

I set out for Marble Hill Campsite at around 10am as it is only a two hour walk out from the hut.

Last view of the Manson Nichols hut on the Saturday

 It was still overcast on the Saturday but warm enough that I didn't need a jacket or warm layer. Travel back is along the same track you follow heading into the lake. 

Lake Daniell Track starts next to the hut...

On the Lake Daniell Track en-route to Marble Hill

Boardwalk along the lake end of the Lake Daniell Track

Back into the goblin forest, Lake Daniell Track

I made quick progress as there is a discernable downward slope as you walk out from the hut. I was back at the Fraser Stream bridge in less than 20 minutes and continued on my way...

Great example of benched track...Lake Daniell Track

Descent to the Fraser Stream bridge, Lake Daniell Track

From Fraser Stream it is a gradual but steady climb up to the Pell Stream Lookout which is the half way point of the track. There was a bit of water flowing in the streams and small waterfalls as there had been rain overnight. 

On the river terrace near Fraser Stream bridge

Side stream near the Alfred River Gorge

Lake Daniell Track: waterfall near the Alfred Gorge

Jon on the Lake Daniell Track

The last kilometer climbing up to the Pell Stream Lookout is steeper but it is still a very easy track to walk. I got to the Pell Stream seat after about an hour and sat down for 10 minutes to have a snack and some water. I usually walk solid for the first hour of any tramp to cover some distance and then have a five minute break every half hour for the rest of the day. 

Climbing up and around the Alfred River Gorge

Climbing up towards the Pell Stream Lookout

Back at the Pell Stream Lookout, Lake Daniell Track

From the Pell Stream Lookout is a long sidle to get past the upper Alfred Gorge and then a long gradual descent down to the Alfred River itself. 

On the river terrace above the Alfred River Gorge

Looking down on the Alfred River Gorge

There is an access point at the bottom of the sidle where you can get right down to the Alfred River. This is one of several crossing points to get to the Pell Stream Track. It is also a good place for a break and a water resupply if required as the water is still good above this point. There are some mighty big chunks of quartz in the river here so there might be gold in those river gravels....

Downstream view of Alfred River near the second clearing

View upstream towards the Alfred River Gorge, Lake Daniell Track

The upper or second of the river clearings is about 300 meters down river from the access point. Along the way you pass trough an area of large red beech trees. There are a couple of wind fall trees along the track but DOC has obviously been clearing them as there were big rounds of wood scattered along the side of the track. 

Lake Daniell Track: on the edge of the second clearing...

There was a bit of windfall on the Lake Daniell Track

The two clearings along the Alfred River would be good spots to camp but you would have to keep an eye on the weather forecast as the river could cut off your access if it flooded. There was a lot of evidence of flood including debris wrapped around the bottom of trees along the track. The clearing is about two hectares and I have seen wild pigs and red deer here in the past but not on this trip. 

View across the second clearing, Lake Daniell Track

From the upper clearing you climb up and around the lower gorge of the Alfred River...there is a lot of boardwalk and goblin forest along this section and the occasional view down to the river bed about 20-30 meters lower than the track. Be careful around the edges as it is a sheer fall down to the river....

Lake Daniell Track: boardwalk above the lower Alfred Gorge

Looking down on the lower Alfred Gorge from the Lake Daniell Track

Safety barrier above the lower Alfred Gorge, Lake Daniell Track

You soon arrive at the lower or first clearing along the Alfred River. This clearing is slightly larger with grass and tussock on both sides of the river. From here you are less than thirty minutes to the end of the track at Marble Hill campsite. You skirt around the edge of the clearing before heading back into the bush to start the climb around the last ridge before the Sluice Box. 

Lake Daniell Track: the first or lower clearing...

Climbing out of the first clearing, Lake Daniell Track

There are few birds in this forest...I saw several Robins and Fantails and I heard a number of Bellbirds and Kaka but the numbers are low compared to the last time I was up here. It could be the cold of winter but 2020/2021 was a mast year so it is probable that the pests have impacted on bird numbers.

Bush Robin along the Lake Daniell Track

Lake Daniell Track: climbing around the ridge off Pt. 771

Once around that last ridge line you can see the Sluice Box again and know you are on the last 500 meters of the track. I stopped for about 10 minutes filming the river and admiring the aquamarine pools under the bridge. It is an idyllic spot and worth stopping at Marble Hill just to visit. The next time you are coming over Lewis Pass pull over and walk the easy 400 meters up to the bridge. 

Back at the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track

Bridge over the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track

Upstream of the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track

Downstream of the Sluice Box, Lake Daniell Track

The last 400 meters of the Lake Daniel Track is mostly flat track through some impressively big Red Beech and it is a fitting start and end to this awesome track....

On the Lake Daniell Track near Marble Hill

Marble Hill trampers shelter, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

Luckily the Silver Surfer was still at the track end and in one piece....

At the Marble Hill Campsite, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

A trip up to Lake Daniell is an excellent all weather overnight or day trip and is tailor made for a winter excursion. You get to stay in a new, warm hut and enjoy a remote experience with the minimum of effort. Obviously pack for the cold as it might be like an ice box up here in the snow, rain and wind you often get around Lewis Pass. 

Access: Take SH7, the Lewis Pass Highway, turn off at Marble Hill camp site 5 km's west of Maruia Springs, track starts next to car park shelter

Track Times: 8.4 kilometers or 2-3 hours to Manson-Nicholls Hut at Lake Daniell

Hut Details: Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nichols Hut: Serviced, 20 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, toilets: Lake Daniells campsite: standard rate, space for 5-10 tents with additional space in the forest. There is a very nice campsite cooking shelter with a bench, water tank and several picnic tables. 

Miscellaneous: All weather track to a good standard with all streams now bridged. Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nichols Hut is on the DOC hut booking system. It can be busy in summer or over the holidays and a hut warden will be in attendance at these times.