Tuesday, 5 October 2021

Hokitika: I of V: Hokitika Gorge Walkway: 23rd September 2021

 Revisiting the extended Hokitika Gorge Walkway...

The first real walk we did when we got to Hokitika was the newly extended Hokitika Gorge Walk. Over 2020 and the beginning of 2021 the Department of Conservation built a new suspension bridge over the Hokitika River. The new bridge is about 500 meters up stream from the old bridge and it is connected with a new loop track.

The existing swing-bridge over the Hokitika Gorge...

The old walk was 700 meters to near Rocky Point where you turned about and walked back to the entrance...it was 1.5 kilometres or 30-40 minutes return. The new loop track is just over three kilometres and it takes from 1-1.5 hours to cover the full distance. 


The new extension makes this a one hour loop track...

Along the way DOC have built a number of fantastic look out points where you can see various sections of the Hokitika Gorge. This allows you to take in much more of this beautiful scenic site and better utilises the full length of the Gorge. 


New lookout on the extended Hokitika Gorge Walk

The new suspension bridge is awesome...it is now the second longest backcountry suspension bridge in New Zealand at just over 110 meters. It is around 60 meters above the river so there are stunning views to be had from the deck of the river below. When the tourists start coming back to New Zealand this is going to be a major tourism destination. 


The new suspension bridge over the Hokitika Gorge...

The new link tracks are fantastic...wide, flat, easy to walk and well constructed they are a perfect compliment to the rest of the Walkway. They pass through groves of massive Podocarp trees, fern beds and thick dense West Coast bush. 


...with an awesome bush walk back to the carpark...

All in all the new extended track has taken a classic short walk and transformed it into something so much better. Great job DOC.....


On the Hokitika Gorge Walkway: Old section:

The first part of the Hokitika Gorge Walk is along the old track to the first suspension bridge. It is 700 meters to the bridge along a series of gravel tracks, boardwalk and bridge sections. We parked Bruce in the car park and set off to see what the new track sections looked like. 

The camper van parked at the Hokitika Gorge Reserve carpark

The map at the start of the track shows you how much longer the new extended track is...it is easily 3-4 times longer now and takes in about a full third of the whole Hokitika Gorge. 


Map: the extended Hokitika Gorge Loop Track

There are a set of toilets at the start of the track (the only ones along the track) and a small information kiosk with some panels dealing with the history, geology and biology of the area. This whole area is glacial in nature and the rocky outcrops along the track are moraine piles and hard rock the ancient glacier was not able to move. This has been eroded by the river over many millennia to form the Hokitika Gorge. 


Hokitika Gorge Reserve: the toilets at the track start

The information kiosk at the start of the Hokitika Gorge Walk


Hokitika Gorge Reserve: Information panel at start...


DOC have updated the information in the kiosk but the track sign at the start still shows the old times and distances. From here it is 15-20 minutes to Rocky Point and 1-1.5 hours to walk the whole track. You are straight into it with a very mild climb up the track to the first lookout point about 200 meters along...


The DOC sign has not yet been updated at Hokitika Gorge Reserve

Start of the Hokitika Gorge Track, Hokitika Gorge Reserve

Hokitika Gorge Walk...there is a lot of boardwalk!

You get your first view of the turquoise blue waters of Hokitika Gorge from the first lookout. It is high above the river and you can see down to the first suspension bridge and down to where the Hokitika Gorge emerges into the nearby river flats and farmland. 


The view of Hokitika Gorge from the first lookout....

Glacial blue water in the Hokitika River

From here you drop down a couple of hundred meters to meet up with the first suspension bridge over the Hokitika River. The track is wide gravel and boardwalk but it is perhaps a bit rough for wheelchair access. The hill alongside the track is covered with a variety of ferns, grass, flax, and wort's of various sizes and colours. 


Hokitika Gorge Walk: heading down to the first bridge...

Dense Podocarp forest along the Hokitika Gorge Walk

....I like this retaining wall on the Hokitika Gorge Walk...

After 10 minutes walking you will find yourself at the first suspension bridge...it is a proper bridge with a deck and it stretches from one bank to the other about 40 meters above the river. The beautiful blue water flowing beneath you is made by light refraction in the 'glacial flour' or rock dust the river carries. It was looking gorgeous the day we visited but will be dark and muddy if there has been a rain event recently.


Hokitika Gorge Walk: the first suspension bridge

View downstream from the Hokitika Gorge Walk bridge


...looking upstream from the first bridge..

Jon crossing the Hokitika Gorge Walk bridge

...view from the true left of the Hokitika River...

Past the first bridge you walk a couple of hundred meters to the lookout deck above Rocky Point. The forest along here is beautiful Podocarp with a number of small side streams which cross the track on their way to the main river. 


Hokitika Gorge Walk: heading for Rocky Point...

Nice forest on the true left of the Hokitika River...

Vines wrapped around a tree...Hokitika Gorge Walk

It slowly descends another 200 meters and drops you at a rocky prominence in a bend of the Hokitkia River. From Rocky Point you are able to see for several hundred meters in both directions along the river and this is the best location to take photos of the Gorge. 


Approaching the Rocky Point viewing platform

Rocky Point and the Hokitika Gorge, Hokitika Gorge Walk

There is a small set of stairs which you can use to drop down to the rocks of the point and a small sandy beach on the side of the river. You must exercise extreme caution here and keep a tight hold of your kids...several people have drowned after falling off the rocks and into the river. The flow is not that fast BUT it is super deep, icy cold and filled with under water rocks and eddies which will quickly pull you under. 


...you can walk down to the point on these stairs...

I'm going down to take some photos...

Hokitika Gorge Walk: Jon at Rocky Point

The view from the rocks are just stunning...it is worth the risk to have a look but just be careful.


View upriver to the old suspension bridge, Hokitika Gorge Walk

Panoramic view of the Hokitika Gorge

...the new suspension bridge is just around the corner...


This sign is not idle warning...it is your responsibility to keep yourself and your family safe so don't go buggering around at Rocky Point. Keep an eye on the rocks, don't go too close to the edge and for Gods sake don't become a needless selfie casualty.


Multiple people have died falling into the Hokitika Gorge...

From here you can just turn about and head back to the carpark the way you just walked. It is about 15-20 minutes back up the hill and is not too strenuous a climb if you take your time.  


On the Hokitika Gorge Track extension...

The new track section starts right from the turn off to Rocky Point and heads about 500 meters along the true left of the river to the new suspension bridge. It is a mixture of gravel paths, boardwalk and bridges cantilevered out from the Gorge walls. 


Start of the new track on the Hokitika Gorge Walk

...there are significant sections of bridging or boardwalk...

DOC have done a magnificent job of fitting the new track into the surroundings with a minimum of straight edges. The track and boardwalk gracefully follows the line of the hills and they have removed a minimum of foliage to accommodate it. 

Once the bridge work weathers it will fade into the landscape...


 Hokitika Gorge Walk: I love how it follows the hillside...

The walls of the gorge are right next to you as you walk along and they are covered in small native plants, mosses and ferns. The track builders were obviously told to do minimal disturbance as they have not even scuffed the moss off some of the rocks close to the track. 

There are several small cascades falling down to and under the boardwalk this adds to the overall air of permeance of the track even though it is less than one year old. 


Small rivulet running across the Hokitika Gorge Walk

Looking back at a fern covered bank....

You have occasional views down to the Hokitika River

There are a couple of new viewing platforms along the section of track to the new bridge. They are located at good spots to allow you to view the gorge upstream of Rocky Point. DOC have installed benches made from highly varnished native wood so that you can sit and contemplate although the sand-flies will make any rest brief as they are usually veracious at this reserve. 


A new viewpoint along the extended Hokitika Gorge Walk

There are many benches along the new Hokitika Gorge Walk

Hokitika Gorge Walk: view from the first new lookout platform...

You continue along the track on multiple sections of boardwalk with the occasional window down to the river or forwards towards the new suspension bridge. There is a small bridge over a pretty side stream along here and there is a beautiful cascade in this stream which you can see but not photograph easily. 



Continuing towards the second bridge, Hokitika Gorge Walk

Hokitika Gorge Walk: bridge over a side stream...

Typical forest along the extended Hokitika Gorge Walk

About 200 meters from the new bridge is a gap in the forest canopy which allows you to see just how big it is and how far above the water. In the distance are the foothills and ridges of the Southern Alps and there is little sign of humans for most of the way. 


Hokitika Gorge Walk: first view of the new bridge...

Closer view of the second bridge on the Hokitika Gorge Walk

You drop down to the approaches to the second bridge through ferns and native trees along high quality gravel track so the walking is very easy. The new bridge keeps appearing through the foliage as you walk the last steps to the start of it...


Winding down to the second bridge over Hokitika Gorge...

Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge (2020) is now the second longest backcountry suspension bridge in New Zealand. The only longer ones are on one of the cycle trails down in Otago and it just pushes the Kohaihai Bridge in Kahurangi NP out of second place. There are longer swingbridges on the Buller River, Tararuas and along the Timber Trail in the North Island. 


Start of Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge (2020)

Karen crossing the new suspension bridge, Hokitika Gorge Walk

The view from the bridge is magic...upstream you can see the river flats above the Hokitika Gorge and Miserable Ridge. Downstream you can see right down to where the river rounds a point and heads towards Rocky Point and the first bridge. You are so high that the ends of the bridge are passing the topmost foliage of some big Kahikatea, Rimu, Matai and Totora Trees. 


Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge: view upstream...

Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge: view downstream...

The Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge is 40 meters above the water

At the true right side of the bridge you pass high above a small side stream which is feeding into the main Hokitika River...the water is a rich brown colour due to all the tannins in the ground water. 


Side stream running into the Hokitika River from the bridge

The forest reaches almost to waters edge...

From the far side you can see just how long the bridge is and the size of the massive support towers is very evident. The bridge is anchored to massive boulders and huge concrete piers so it was rock solid even in the freshening breeze blowing down the Gorge. 


Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge from the far bank...

Good view of the structure of Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge

I spotted a Monarch Butterfly resting on one of the support pillars....it is a bit out of season as you normally only see them later in the summer from December through March. It was nice to see one after the rigours of winter...


Monarch Butterfly resting on the bridge support...

From the end of the bridge it would be one kilometre back to the carpark at the entrance of the Reserve. This is all new track and it has been beautifully constructed to slowly ascend about 200 meters over its length so it is a nice easy walk back up to the track end. The forest in the first section was pristine with massive Rimu, Matai, Totora and Kahikatea Trees. 


Hokitika Gorge Walk: the new track on the north side of the river...


The extended Hokitika Gorge Walk winds up to the carpark...

Miserable Ridge from the Hokitika Gorge Walk

The later parts of this walk are beautiful but they seem to me like the forest might have been milled at some point in the past. There are still big Podocarps through here but they are not as massive as the ones closer to the river. There is also a lot of mature Tree Ferns and Manuka trees which are often the first trees to recolonise a milled area.

Mixed Podocarp forest along the extended Hokitika Gorge Walk

...the new track is well constructed and easy to walk...

Hokitika Gorge Walk: passing some Matai and Hinau Trees

...wide track on the new sections...

Sections of the track close to the carpark look like old bullock tracks...they are wider than the rest and you can see really old benching along the side of the tracks. I think there might have been a road through here at one time but it must have been a long time ago as the bush is dense. It might have been a forestry road or access to the big river flats above Hokitika Gorge which were once farmed. 


A small ridge abuts the Hokitika Gorge Walk

We saw a number of bait stations through the forest...I couldn't decide if they were for rodents, Possums or Wasps. I have never seen these before but they look the right height above ground for possums...it will be something like 1080 or Cyanide. 


Poison bait for Possums on the Hokitika Gorge Walk

...possible old bullock track section...

About 200 meters from the end of the track is an old ancient pile of rocks that look like glacial erratic's to me. A retreating glacier will drop massive hanks of rock off its face when it can no longer support them. You see them in old glacial areas like the Cobb Valley, Mt Cook, Mt Aspiring, Arthurs Pass and Nelson Lakes NP all the time. Some of these are as big as a three bedroom house...


Ancient glacial erratic's on the Hokitika Gorge Walk

Old fence post near the end of Hokitika Gorge Walk

Eventually you walk off the Hokitika Gorge Walk into the carpark at the beginning of the reserve. It was very quiet the day we were there and I think we saw possibly six of eight other people the whole time we were there. 

End of the Hokitika Gorge Walk at the carpark...

Looking back at the end of the Hokitika Gorge Walk

There is a huge carpark here as it is normally heaving with people over the summer, school holidays and weekends. I recommend you visit outside those times if possible so you can have a more natural experience. It was tranquil walking from the new bridge to the carpark with only bird call and wind blowing through the trees...


...plenty of parking at Hokitika Gorge Reserve...

Back at the Hokitika Gorge Reserve car park...

So that is the beautiful new track extension on the Hokitika Gorge Walk...it is well worth a return visit as the new track really enhances the already awesome walk. I think I might be inclined to walk the new sections of track first as it would make for a new experience if you have already visited the reserve. 

That is what I will probably do if I ever find myself at the reserve in the future. 



Access: The route to Hokitika Gorge Reserve is extremely convoluted so it is worth mapping it out before you start. From Hokitika head east out of town towards Kaniere, take the road to Kokatahi and hence to Kowhitirangi. From here follow Johnston Road to Neilson Road then Whitcombe Valley Road to the car-park at the start of the track. As I said...convoluted!!!!
Track Times: It takes 45 minutes to 1 hour to walk the new full loop track.
Miscellaneous: The track is built to a superior standard as this is a very popular track. The track is suitable for just about everyone. There are a set of toilets at the start of the track but none down nearer the Gorge. The track was extended in early 2021 with new track and a new suspension bridge up river from the old one. It is now just short of three kilometre's to walk the full loop track. 


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