Paparoa NP: Pancake Rocks Walk: 22nd September 2021

  A return visit to the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki..

We went and walked around the Pancake Rocks Walk before leaving Punakaiki...it is always a highlight of a visit to this area as the coast along here is just stunning. It was very, very quiet on the walk as there are just no tourists around with the Covid limitations on international arrivals. There would have been less than twenty people in the reserve the whole time we were walking.

Entrance to the Pancake Rocks Reserve at Punakaiki

You will find a set of information panels at the entrance which set out the historical, cultural and environmental value of this site. You should have a bit of a look at them so you have some context in which to view the rock formations. These are followed up by a series of panels around different track side plant species and information panels detailing how the rocks came to look like this. 

Information panels at the start of the Pancake Rocks Walk

You start in thick coastal bush....

The coast from Punakaiki to Kahurangi Point is noted for the southern most species of Palm trees in the world. The Nikau Palm is a New Zealand native which inhabits the coastal fringe all along the north west corner of the South Island. They are an elegant and beautiful tree and they abound along the Pancake Rocks Walk. 

DOC information panels abound at Pancake Rocks

DOC panel for the Nikau Palms found here...

The Pancake Rocks Walk is a sealed all weather track and it is wheelchair accessible except for the section along the western most sea cliffs at Dolomite Point. It is open both day and night and I have been down here with a torch around dusk as it is especially beautiful at that time of the day. 

The Pancake Rocks Walk is a sealed all weather track

The best time to visit is during or just after a storm as the ocean will beat brutally on the sea cliffs at that time. There are a series of blowholes in the reserve that will only work when the sea is rough. It was wild and stormy the previous night and with a strong storm blowing in off the Tasman Sea the waves were big...

Off shore rock pillar at Pancake Rocks, Punakaiki

Explanation of the rock stacks, Pancake Rocks

When conditions are clear you can see south to Elizabeth Point from Punakaiki...it was dark and misty on the day we were there so we could only see for about 20 kilometers down the coast. It was possible to make out the mouth of the Punakaiki River, Razorback Point and Seventeen Mile Bluff from near the Pancake Rocks.

View south down the West Coast of the South Island

Rock spires and eroded gullies at Pancake Rocks

The Pancake Rocks are compacted sedimentary soils laid down in the shallow offshore waters along this coast about 30 million years ago. Tectonic uplift has raised them out of the ocean and they have gradually worn down over the millennia to a state where you can clearly see the striations. They are predominately grey in colour but there is also brown, tan, blue-green and black as different coloured soils were deposited. 

Good study of the nature of the Pancake Rocks

There are a lot of warning signs at the Pancake Rocks Reserve warning of the danger of crossing fences along the sea cliffs. Several people have died here when they stupidly climbed out onto the rock spires for good photos. The tides are rough along here so they would quickly drown or die from violent impact with the rocks....falling into the ocean would be certain death.

Don't be that guy...stay behind the barriers at all times!!!

There have been fatalities at Pancake Rocks

There is a beautiful area of Harakeke close to the cliff top path...the track meanders through this as you head to the western cliff edge at Dolomite Point. Flax is a natural feature of coastal bush but this area was actually planted back in the early 2000's and is just coming into maturity...

Extensive Harekake/Flax grove at Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks: rough seas pound the coast

View of Razorback Point and the Paparoa Range from Pancake Rocks

There is a short side track about 600 meters along the track with a series of tracks which lead out to Dolomite Point. This is the most spectacular part of the walk but it entails some climbing up/down stairs and rough uneven ground so is not wheel chair compatible. 

More information about the rock formations at Pancake Rocks

Heading down towards Dolomite Point...Pancake Rocks Reserve

...a swirling maelstrom at Dolomite Point....

The sea was pounding the rock cliffs at Pancake Rocks

There are a number of blowholes, tidal pools and small/large gullies along this section of the coast where the waves have carved into the limestone which underlies the whole area. These gradually widen to form sea caves, huge tidal pools and eventually rock spires. 

Channel leading to the Putai Blowhole, Pancake Rocks Reserve

Pancake Rocks Reserve: Razorback Point and Seventeen Mile Bluff

Putai is the largest of the blowholes...the water has eroded the sandstone forming tunnels into which waves are forced. This creates a jet of water and air which shoots a spurt of sea foam high into the air. With the big seas there were massive waves crashing up out of Putai and the spray was flying high into the air...

Pancake Rocks Reserve: there are several sets of seats here...

Putai Blowhole at Pancake Rocks Reserve

....a water spout at Putai blowhole, Pancake Rocks Reserve...

White Fronted Terns nest along the coastline from September through February and we were lucky to see large numbers of them sitting on the rocks and flying about near Dolomite Point. It seems a most precarious spot to nest but at least they would be mostly safe from predators...

White Fronted Terns nesting at Pancake Rocks Reserve

...their nesting area is super precarious at Pancake Rocks Reserve...

Commemorative plaque from gazetting of Paparoa NP

When you get to Dolomite Point and head along the northern side of the reserve you have excellent views north to the mouth of the Pororairi River, Pororairi Beach and to Perpendicular Point near Te Miko. There were massive waves rolling into the bay and crashing onto the sea wall near Punakaiki Cavern. 

View north to the mouth of the Pororairi River

A rough Tasman Sea from Pancake Rocks Reserve

View of the bluffs which back Punakaiki

You cross over a limestone land bridge along the sea cliffs which separates the Tasman Sea from the massive tidal pool just behind the coast. Huge waves were rolling into this area from tunnels under the rock and smashing over and around the huge chunks of fallen rock which has cleaved from the cliffs. It would easily be 70-80 meters from the top of the cliffs to their base.

The sea is slowly eroding away at the Pancake Rocks

Pancake Rocks Reserve: the pathway along the cliff tops

...there are many small off shore islands at Pancake Rocks Reserve

There is an interesting set of stairs along the pathway which descend down to a viewpoint at the north western edge of Dolomite Point. Sections of the limestone have been removed to make the individual stairs. It is really cool looking and would be magnificent as a conversation piece in some big mansion somewhere...

Descending rock cut stairs at Pancake Rocks Reserve

....the striking staircase viewed from below...

There is a nice lookout point near the stairs which looks out over the rock spires and islands on this side of the reserve. They have a panel here pointing out interesting shapes in the nearby rocks...you should stop and see if you can visualise the shapes that others have seen.

View point on the Pancake Rocks Walk

What shapes can you see in the photo below....?

Suggestive rock formations at Pancake Rocks Reserve

There is a good view of the massive tidal pool from near the lookout...you can see one of the tunnels which runs into this pool from the southern side of Dolomite Point. It is slowly carving a sea cave into the cliff face which will one day become a new gully...

Pancake Rocks Reserve: the spectacular tidal pool...

You climb back up a set of stairs to the main Pancake Rocks Track where you head inland and back towards the entrance/exit to the reserve. 

Climbing back up to the main Pancake Rocks Walk

Pancake Rocks Reserve is really spectacular...

Looking towards the Punakaiki Holiday Park

There are some great lookouts here where you can get a much clearer view of the area around the Punakaiki Holiday Park. You can see where massive chunks of the cliff face have fallen into the sea...the water was swirling and pounding over these rocks and onto a small stony beach at the base of the cliffs. 

Off in the distance you can see the massive bluffs which back the highway along this coast...they are also the result of tectonic uplift as the Australian and Pacific Plates have collided and forced the land upwards.

...huge rolling waves heading for Pororairi Beach...

Jon at the Pancake Rocks Reserve

There are White Fronted Terns nesting on the headlands and rock spires on this side of the Point. Punakaiki is also a breeding area for Fur Seals, Blue Penguins, White Faced Herons and Westland Petrels all of which can be seen along here at different times of the year. 

...more White Fronted Terns at Pancake Rocks Reserve

....a variety of life lives at Pancake Rocks Reserve....

On the clear day you can see the Paparoa Range inland from the coast...some of the mountains here rise to over 1500 a.s.l and they separate the coastal zone from the river valleys of the Buller, Inangahua and Grey River. It was only possible to see the first range of foothills with the misty conditions we had...

Good view of the low hills behind the sea cliffs at Pancake Rocks 

You head along the sealed track back towards the  star of the track with thick coastal bush growing right up to the side of the track...

...on the way back to the carpark, Pancake Rocks Reserve...

Information panel at Pancake Rocks Reserve

...the cliffs are slowly breaking apart...

...the Pancake Rocks Walk heads back through the Harakeke...

Then it is back into a thin fringe of coastal forest with Cabbage Trees, Nikau Palms and small  Kahikatea trees forming the canopy. The under story along here is super dense as it is very wet along the coast which makes the forest thrive...

...the forest comes right up to track side at Pancake Rocks

Dense Podocarp/Nikau forest near the end of the track...

You finish the track in the same place you started so the whole loop track will take you around 40 minutes to cover over around 1.5-2 kilometer's in total. You exit back on SH 6 directly opposite the DOC office for Paparoa National Park. 

There is a vlog post about this walk on my You Tube channel...you can see it here.

Nikau Palms at the entrance to Pancake Rocks Reserve....

We went across the road and had a look around in the Paparoa National Park DOC office then we had a look in Punakaiki Crafts next door. The store has a good selection of souvenirs and outdoor clothing, shoes and boots from Merrell, Hi-Tech, La Sportiva and Keen so if you have forgotten your outdoor shoes have a look. They were well priced for such a remote area and they had a good range of sizes. 

DOC office for Paparoa NP at Punakaiki

We had breakfast in the Pancake Rocks Café before setting out down the coast towards Hokitika..the food was good and the café was almost empty as it was a Wednesday morning. Karen commented on how good the coffee was there....

Pancake Rocks Café and Punakaiki Crafts...

A cheeky as Weka came over to investigate my bag while we were sitting outside the DOC office...it was the only one we saw in the whole of Punakaiki. They are terrible thieves so you have to watch your stuff around them as they will pinch anything not secured to something. I saw one pinch some frilly pink knickers off some tramper's on the QCT one time...so they are also perverts...watch them!

A curious Weka checks out my bag at Pancake Rocks

...finding nothing of value he grumpily walks away...

Karen and I enjoyed the Pancake Rocks Walk...we always make sure to visit if travelling through these parts. It is equally good during the day or at night but take a torch after dusk as it is really dark once the sun goes down. There is a reason why over 1 million visitors a year used to come here...it is spectacular!!!

Access: The start of the Pancake Rocks Track is directly opposite the Paparoa DOC office on SH 6 just before Punakaiki. It is well sign posted and obvious. 

Track Times: From the start of the track it takes approximately 30-40 minutes (about 1 kilometre) to complete the circuit...the track can be walked in either direction.

Miscellaneous: There are several large car parks here as the site receives over 1 million visitors a year.  DO NOT leave valuables in sight as this car-park is targeted by thieves. The track is sealed along its length but there is a section of steep stairs half way around. There are toilets, a café, gift shop and the local DOC office at the entrance to the track.