Kahurangi NP: Heaphy Track, Day 4: James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut

The downhill run to Heaphy Hut...

On the fourth day of my trip I was walking down the track and out to the mouth of the Heaphy River on the West Coast. Heaphy Hut was 21 km's away and all but 6 kilometers was downhill from James MacKay Hut. This was the longest day of the tramp and it took me just over 6 hours to cover the distance. 

On the Heaphy Track between James MacKay Hut and Lewis Shelter

I spent an interesting afternoon exploring around Heaphy Hut and quite a bit of time down on the beach. I also had a look at the Heaphy Campsite but the numerous sandflies meant I spent most of my time indoors...

The mouth of the Heaphy River near the hut

This was one of the more interesting of the sections along the Heaphy Track as the terrain changes over the day and although it is a long way the track is fairly easy. 

Day 4: James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut, (6 hours, 21 kilometers)

I was the first person out of the hut that morning and set a cracking pace down the track towards Lewis Shelter which was my first destination for the day. It was wet and overcast and I had to wear my wet weather gear for most of the walk. I didn't see anyone until about a kilometer from Lewis Shelter when I meet some people climbing up to James MacKay Hut. 

Leaving James MacKay Hut on day four...

On the side track back down to the Heaphy Track

Once down on the main Heaphy Track it is downhill for the next four hours as you make your way down to Lewis Shelter at the confluence of the Heaphy and Lewis Rivers. I started off in light misty rain but had to stop down the track after ten minutes and put my jacket on as it had started to rain more heavily. 

The track heads downhill from here to Lewis Shelter about 15 km's away...

On the Heaphy Track enroute to Lewis Hut

It is easy travel on this section of the track but it is 21 kilometers to Heaphy Hut so even though it is mostly downhill it is still a long way...my legs were tired at the end of the day!!!

First of many side creeks between James MacKay and Lewis Shelter

I meandered along the track looking at the views of the surrounding mountains and bush along the track. At one point I spied a Robin in a tree and managed to capture some good video of the bird flitting through the forest. There was also a beautiful flowering Rata tree just off the track that the James MacKay hut warden had mentioned the previous evening. 

A Bush Wren I passed on the way to Lewis Shelter

Flowering Rata tree just off the Heaphy Track

To start with the track is open but it soon enters thicker forest and the tree species start to change from sub-alpine to Podocarp as you lose altitude. Gradually the trees get taller until they form a canopy over the track which was useful as it was protecting me from the increasing intensity of the rain falling.

To start the track was open...Heaphy Track

After about three km's it became Podocarp forest...Heaphy Track

There are a lot of Dracophyllum in this forest and there were several different varieties growing along the side of the track. They are a hansom looking tree with their Pineapple like top growth and long spindly trunks. 

Dracophyllum Tree just off the Heaphy Track...

The forest got a more dense and darker as I dropped down from the MacKay Downs.  At one point in a particularly dark section I walked around a corner and spooked a Kiwi that was walking down the track. This is the first time I have seen a Kiwi in the daylight on the mainland islands and it was exciting to see one in the wild....

I spooked a Kiwi in a dark section of forest...

Various people had written messages here...

An old NZFS sign marks on the side of the track

I had two liters or water with me when I left the hut that morning but there were a multitude of good side streams where you could resupply if your water was getting low. Some of the creeks and streams are bridged but others are not and there are a couple that could be a problem in heavy rain. 

Multiple creeks cross the Heaphy Track on day four

Pile of logs clogging a side stream...Heaphy Track

The track was a bit muddy after two days of rain...a pair of gaiters would have been useful on day three and four of this trip as both days I arrived at the hut with mud up to my knees. I had to stop about 2 hours into the day and put on my wet weather pants as it was teeming with rain. I had to keep them on until I reached Lewis Shelter as the forest up to that point alternates between thick cover and open sections. 

Some sections of the track were muddy...Heaphy Track

Most of the track is raised up from the surrounding forest...

One of the more open track sections...Heaphy Track

At one point you cross over a huge seam of coal that stretches across the track...it was easily 20 meters wide and was really obvious. You could actually smell the coal as it had a small stream running across parts of it and the water mist picked up the scent. I didn't capture a photo of it but I have managed to film it so have a look at the vlog post I have made on You Tube for this section of the Heaphy Track.

You cross over 20 bridges on the way to Heaphy Hut

Dracophyllum leaves across the Heaphy Track

I stopped for a break somewhere between Pt. 254 and Pt. 232 on my way down to the Lewis Shelter. There is a clear view down to the Heaphy River from here and if it is not cloudy you should be able to see the distant coast. It was warm and muggy in the forest so I took my jacket off to cool down a bit...

First view down to the Heaphy River from the Heaphy Track

My rest spot between James MacKay Hut and Lewis Shelter

After five minutes I gathered my gear and set off once again to the Lewis Shelter...I passed through a small grove of Rimu trees on the way. There are excellent views down to the Heaphy River along this section as well as a couple of places where the track has slipped away and is under repair. 

Grove of Rimu near Pt. 254 along the Heaphy Track

Clearer view of the distant Heaphy river

There were a couple of slips along this section....

I was making excellent progress and soon found myself at the marker post 1 kilometer from the Lewis Shelter. It was still lightly raining so I had my wet weather gear on but the track is an easy descent down to the shelter so I was not getting too hot...

Confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers

One last kilometer to the new Lewis Shelter, Heaphy Track

I saw a rare native Wort the hut warden at James MacKay had mentioned the previous night. They used to cut them back from along the track until she realised they were a rare species of plant. DOC are now allowing them to grow along the side of the track. They can grow to be nearly a meter tall although these were very small examples. 

Native Wort growing along the Heaphy Track

I soon found myself at the brand new Lewis Shelter and turned off the main track to go refill my water bottle and to have a bite to eat. The classic 1970's era Lewis Hut was removed in October 2021 and replaced with a new shelter. 

The old hut was near the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers and was starting to get to close to the rivers edge due to erosion. It was a lovely hut...I visited it back in 1990 when I first walked the track as part of an Army tramping party. 

Turning off the Heaphy Track to Lewis shelter

Lewis Shelter (2021), Kahurangi NP

Detail of the brand new Lewis Shelter

It is a decent looking shelter but it has a number of problems with it already....it is open to the air and hence sandflies who are thick in these parts. You basically could not sit inside the shelter as they were eating me alive. It really needs to be enclosed or have doors with bug screens at the entrance. 

There is an excellent view of the Heaphy River swing bridge from the veranda so make sure you check it out. You can also see down to the confluence with the Lewis river.

View from the Lewis Shelter veranda

Apart from the sandflies it is well set up with plenty of seating both inside and outside of the shelter. It has flush toilets and filtered water from a stream feed watertank. The hut will be due a coat of paint once the Great Walk season is finished as that natural wood will quickly rot if it is not covered up...

Western side of the interior of Lewis Shelter

Eastern side of the interior of Lewis Shelter

Lewis Shelter has flush toilets and filtered water

I stayed less than five minutes and then continued on down the track to the Heaphy River swing-bridge. On the way you pass the old site of the Lewis Hut and you can see why it was removed as the river bank has eroded over 20 meters since I was last here. This is vivid proof that climate change is happening...all those big storms we keep having are quickening the pace of the erosion.

Site of the old Lewis Hut (1971-2021)

This is what the old Lewis Hut looked like....

Close to the old hut site is the Heaphy River Swingbridge which at 149 meters is now the longest single span swingbridge in New Zealand. The bridge has been upgraded from the 1990's and is now a wider structure with a wooden foot bridge suitable for MTB's....

The Heaphy Swingbridge is the longest in New Zealand

Heaphy River Swingbridge is 149 meters long....

View upstream from Heaphy River Swingbridge

View downstream from Heaphy River Swingbridge

Just over the bridge is an area of massive Northern Rata Trees which have been growing in this area for many centuries. They are an oddity as they do not normally grow in the South Island but they are probable a remnant of some ancient colony. 

They are huge...some of the bigger ones are over 15 meters around the trunk and 40-50 meters tall....they could be 800-1000 years old!!!

One of the massive Rata Trees near the Heaphy River

This Northern Rata is over 15 meters around the trunk...

Nikau Palms become more and more common as you approach the coast and as you get close to Heaphy Hut they are the dominant tree type. I always find it so odd that a Palm tree can grow down here in cold New Zealand...nature is a strange thing sometimes.

Nikau Palm alongside the Heaphy River

It is 8 kilometers or 2-3 hours walk from the Heaphy Swingbridge to the mouth of the Heaphy River. Most of the way it is flat with a couple of small ridges to climb over and it is flanked all the way with dense lowland Podocarp forest. There are a variety of species along the track including Matai, Rata, Kahikatea, Rimu and Totora. 

The last two hours are through lowland podocarp forest...

One of many small bridges along the Heaphy River

It was lightly raining as I walked to Heaphy Hut

It was raining the whole way along the Heaphy River but as you are in thick forest it doesn't mater that much. The canopy protects you from the worst of the rain and it was only the water dripping off the trees that meant I had to keep my jacket on all the way to Heaphy Hut. 

Climbing around a bluff on the Heaphy River

...and then over more flat ground....

The forest was almost tropical looking in places...

You cross a number of large and small creeks and rivers as you get closer to the coast but all of them are bridge so this is an all weather section of the track. In exceptionally heavy rain the Heaphy River will flood into the forest floor. Generally this will only happen in massive storms so most of the time you will have no problems...

Approaches to the Gunnar River Bridge, Heaphy Track

The valley upstream of the Gunnar River Bridge

Another massive Rata tree along the Heaphy Track

It is quick and easy travel across this part of the track but by this time you have already walked about 15 kilometers so you are starting to get a bit tired. Once you cross the Murry Creek bridge you are about 2 kilometers from the end of the track so the day is nearly over...

Palms, Cabbage Trees, Ferns and jungle vines.....Heaphy Track

Murray Creek Bridge is 2 kilometers from Heaphy Hut

Clearings along the Heaphy Track near Pt. 5

I really liked the beauty of this small side stream flowing next to the track...the stained water, sandy bed and thick bush make it seem almost tropical. It reminded me of the Abel Tasman Coast Track which is just north and east of here. 

A small side stream close to Pt. 170 on the Heaphy Track

Just past Murray Creek there are a series of high limestone bluffs right next to the track...this is old seabed that has been condensed and then thrust up by geologic action. The cliffs are 40-80 meters tall and care must be exercised near them as large chunks fall off them periodically. There are a couple of caves in the area including one with a resurgent stream coming out of it...the source must be on top of the bluffs.

Limestone bluffs near the Heaphy Hut site

...the bluffs were 40-80 meters high....

A stream resurgence near Heaphy Hut, Heaphy Track...

The James MacKay hut warden had told us to look out for a recently fallen chunk of rock at the bluffs and sure enough it was sitting right on the track. It was about as big as a fridge and was full of ancient shells, aquatic life and other fossils from when it was ocean floor many eons ago....

This chunk of limestone had fallen from the bluffs

The boulder was full of ancient shells and fossils...

The last kilometer of the track to Heaphy Hut is close to the Heaphy River so you can see the river flowing by and the birds that live here including the nesting Shags shown below...

A pair of Shags nesting above the Heaphy River

I came across my only live Giant Snail close to the marker showing one kilometer to Heaphy Hut. They used to be numerous along the track but they are in decline for a number of reasons. I picked it up with a big leaf and moved it off the track so it doesn't get squashed...

A giant snail close to the Heaphy Track....

Only one more kilometer to Heaphy Track...yaahhhh!!!

Upper estuary of the Heaphy River, Heaphy Track

There is a small sting in the day with a hill to climb right before you get to Pitt Creek and the hut. The track has to climb to avoid the river so there is no option but a hill climb BUT there are a lot of backcountry tracks that end in a hill. The original track builders went for the shortest line so they tended to avoid switchbacks or a route a trail over flat land if it meant more distance to cover....

There is one last hill to climb before Heaphy Hut

The mouth of the Heaphy River...and Heaphy Bluff

There is a new foot bridge over Pitt Creek just before you arrive at Heaphy Hut. It looks like it might have been swept away in a storm recently as all the trees on either side of the creek have been washed away. You can see the DOC hut wardens quarters from near the bridge so you are almost at the end of your walk for the day. 

Pit Creek Bridge...close to Heaphy Hut

Hut wardens quarters at the Heaphy Hut site

End of the walk for day four....Heaphy Hut clearing

I arrived at Heaphy Hut to see the DOC Warden at work washing the outside of the hut down with a high pressure waterblaster. I imagine this is a task you would need to undertake on a regular basis in this location as that sea salt laden air would quickly damage the buildings if left to accumulate. 

I arrive at the Heaphy Hut after six hours...

View of the Heaphy River mouth from the hut...

I was pleased to make it to the hut after walking for over 6 hours...most of the track might have been downhill but it doesn't really make a difference once you get over 20 km's or five hours in one day. You still get tired feet!!!

At Heaphy Hut:

The current Heaphy Hut is the fourth at this location so if we are going to be pedantic it is actually Heaphy Hut IV. This is the second time I have been here now as I visited back in 1990 on an Army exercise where we walked the Heaphy Track. 

Heaphy Hut (2014), Kahurangi NP

The hut location is primo...it has excellent views down to the estuary of the Heaphy River and a nice sandy beach to explore at the river mouth. There is a huge grassy area in front of the hut and part of this area is taken up with the DOC campsite located here. 

After a reviving brew and some late lunch I headed down to the beach to have a look around. 

Walking down to the Heaphy River mouth from the hut

There are great views back up the valley of the Heaphy River...but take care climbing over the piles of drift wood that line the edge of the beach though. It was clear but it was looking dark and threatening further inland as the weather was rolling in from the north east over the distant mountains. 

View back up the Heaphy River Valley

Heaphy Hut from the beach at the river mouth

Massive piles of drift wood down at the Heaphy Estuary

Heaphy Hut is a 32 bunker..it gets traffic from the Heaphy Track but a lot of people also walk into the hut from Kohaihai as an overnight trip. It is also a popular MTB ride from the road end...people will ride in for the day and then head back out to Kohaihai. 

Heaphy Hut: information panel outside the hut

Mud room at the Heaphy Hut

Heaphy Hut: mural on the wall inside the hut

The hut was about 3/4 full on the night I stayed...we had people walking both ways on the Track and a big group of younger folk who came in for an overnight visit. There is plenty of space inside the hut and it is set up much like Perry Saddle and James MacKay with a large central living area and three bunkrooms. The toilets and woodshed are located out the back of the hut. 

The view from inside Heaphy Hut is picturesque...

Heaphy Hut: the kitchen area in the hut

The area around Heaphy Hut is sandfly heaven and they were there in serried regiments so make sure you have some bug spray with you because you are going to need it. You can go and sit outside and explore the area but be prepared to get bitten a few times. 

Just letting you know the score folks...

Panoramic view of inside the Heaphy Hut

My water bottle, cup, spoon and bowl in Heaphy Hut

Later in the afternoon I went for a walk around the hut clearing and had an explore of the campsite located close to the hut. There is plenty of space here for tents...I think the actual number of tent sites is around a dozen. There are separate toilets and a nice campsite shelter located at the campsite with water taps, sinks and a bench off to the side. 

Heaphy Campsite Shelter, Kahurangi NP

The shelter would be a god send in rain which is not uncommon here on the West Coast but as it is three sided you will need to stay covered up or you will get eaten alive by the sandflies. This is the place you need that bug net most of us are carrying but never actually use...

Interior of the Heaphy Campsite Shelter...Heaphy Hut

There are water taps and a bench at the Heaphy Campsite Shelter

There are fireplaces located at the campsite so you can have a fire if you want to...there is a ton of good wood available down at the beach so you could have a huge fire and never run out of fuel. You will also find a couple of picnic tables located here to eat your meal out so I would rate it as an above average campsite.

View from inside the Heaphy Campsite Shelter

View from the track over the Heaphy Campsite

I headed back down to the beach and sat on a log watching the waves roll in for over 30 minutes. I talked to Karen on the phone as there is cell cover if you go right down to the edge of the surf line and face south down the coast. She was already at Karamea waiting for me as she had come over to the Coast to collect me from Kohaihai the next day. 

Isn't she lovely....not everyone would do that as I well know!!!

Heaphy Bluff and the mouth of the Heaphy River

Captain Cook stopped at the mouth of the Heaphy River on two of his voyages to New Zealand to take on fresh water so many of the local features have names of his patrons, senior crew members or important figures in England at that time.

Looking back up the valley we walked down that day...

Waves roll over the sandbar at the mouth of the Heaphy River

One of the family groups walking the track with me were fishing in the estuary of the Heaphy River and they caught a couple of decent fish...a pair of Snapper and a huge Kingfish. They filleted them and had them for dinner that night. 

You cannot fish off the beach as it is a marine reserve but you are allowed to fish the estuary with a permit. It might be worth taking a fishing line with you if you are walking in for a daytrip or over night visit. There are also Mussels, Paua and Scallops here if that floats your boat. Fresh kai moana for dinner sounds good...

The family fishing in the estuary of the Heaphy River

Stay away from the river mouth...there are strong currents!!!

I really enjoyed this days trek...the track was easy although long and the terrain is changeable and beautiful. My highlights of day four would be seeing the Kiwi on the track, the huge Rata trees and sitting on the beach at the end of the day. I said to Karen we should visit the hut off season as a overnight trip from Kohaihai as I think that would be cool. I would probably stay for the maximum two days to make all that walking worth while. 

Access: Getting to the track ends at either Brown River or Kohaihai is extremely difficult at this time. Covid has meant that many services are not available. See my post from earlier this year about planning a trip on the Heaphy Track for more detail....

Track Times: James MacKay to Heaphy Hut is 21 km's or 6 hours

Hut Details: James MacKay Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, gas cookers, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), toilet, water from tank, Lewis Shelter: Shelter, water from tap, benches, sink, picnic table, flush toilet, Heaphy Hut: Great Walk, 32 bunks, gas cookers, wood burner, woodshed (wood supplied), toilet, water from tank

Miscellaneous: All huts and campsites MUST be booked before starting the track. MTB riders are on the track from April to October. There are several rivers and creeks to cross enroute and some may be difficult or impossible in very heavy rain. 

You Tube link: James MacKay to Heaphy Hut