Wednesday, 26 January 2022

Black Valley Walk-Gibbs Walk, St Arnaud: 7th January 2022

 Another way to access Kerr Bay

When I recently visited Nelson Lakes NP I was staying at Nelson Lake Motel and discovered a track from the back of the motel down to Kerr Bay on Lake Rotoiti. I walked this track as a pre dinner jaunt after I had checked into the motel. It was my second walk for the day as I had completed the Braeburn Walk at Lake Rotoroa on the way to St Arnaud. 

The view from the Nelson Lakes Motel...St Arnaud Range

The Black Valley Walk is a 1.5 km track from Bridge Street to the carpark at Kerr Bay and it meanders alongside the Black Valley Stream for most of the way. From Kerr Bay you can make a loop walk by using the Gibbs Track to get back to SH63 which runs through St Arnaud.


There is a track from the motel to the Black Valley Walk

It is a very picturesque walk along Black Valley Stream...the water levels were not high but it is a handsome mountain stream which makes the walk much more interesting. Along the way you walk amongst mature Beech trees and there is a planted border of alpine and riverine plants right along the track.


Black Valley Stream with the track at its side

Heading down the Black Valley Walk to Kerr Bay

The track is heading steadily downhill from the back of the motel to the turn off to the St Arnaud Chapel and Visitor Centre after which it goes up and over some old moraine walls. Despite how busy it was in St Arnaud that weekend I only saw four other people while I was walking the track. 


Most of the Black Valley Walk at St Arnaud is in Beech forest

Toi Toi's along the Black Valley Walk, St Arnaud

There are a couple of side tracks off the Black Valley Walk including one to the General Store out on SH63. The track is wide and well maintained and it was very easy to follow with plenty of signage and track markers. 


The side track to the General Store, Black Valley Walk

There are properties along the boundary of the Black Valley Walk

Black Valley Stream looks awesome and I could imagine it would be great fun for families with children as it is shallow enough to be safe to explore. there are several places where you can reach the side of the stream and there are a number of larger rocks and cascades kids will love. I would watch this stream in heavy rain...it has a big catchment area so I imagine it gets full & moves at speed on occasion...

Cascades in the Black Valley Stream, St Arnaud

The Black Valley Walk is wide and easy to follow...

Narrows along Black Valley Stream at St Arnaud

Black Valley Stream is a pleasant mountain stream...

Looking back to the narrows on the Black Valley Stream

There is only one bigger hill to climb over this is about 3/4 of the way down to Kerr Bay and appeared to be an old moraine. It was not to strenuous to climb over as it would be less than a 40 meter rise over several hundred meters of track so the gradient is easy...


Erratic rocks on the top of an ancient moraine wall...Black Valley Walk

Well benched section of the Black Valley Walk

The turn off to the Chapel and DOC Visitor Centre is nearly at the end of the track and takes about five additional minutes to walk. It will deposit you on Kerr Bay Road right next to the turn off to the Visitor Centre.

Side track to Chapel and Visitor Centre, Black Valley Walk

A mix of Beech species along the Black Valley Walk

There are some large Red Beech trees near the end of the walk and just before you come out onto Kerr Bay Road. Red Beech is common in Nelson Lakes NP especially when you get further up the Travers and Sabine Valley's. I have seen examples here 2-3 meters around the trunk and over 40 meters tall...


There are some big Red Beech along the Black Valley Walk

After about 20 minutes you will find yourself down on the grassy areas which border the main Kerr Bay carpark. From here you have a number or options. You can return the way you came or head further along the road to the Kerr Bay Campsite and the track to Lakehead Hut. You could also walk back up Kerr Bay Road to the Visitor Centre or get back to St Arnaud along SH63. 


End of the Black Valley Walk at Kerr Bay

I wanted to go have a look at the Kerr Bay dock and boat ramp so I headed left and continued along Kerr Bay Road. It is about 100 meters from the bridge to where the ramp and dock jut out into the waters of the lake. 

Lake Rotoiti and Mt Robert from the end of the Black Valley Walk

End of the Black Valley Walk at Kerr Bay

You pass over Black Valley Stream on a road bridge between Kerr Bay and the Kerr Bay Campsite. The river here is wide and flows into Lake Rotoiti which is just off to your right and about 40 meters away. 


 Black Valley Stream at Kerr Bay, Nelson Lakes NP

You should head down to the shore of Lake Rotoiti and enjoy the views of Mt Robert, the St Arnaud Range and the head of the Travers Valley all of which are visible from the beach. It was dark and threatening looking with some clouds blowing in from the south. 

Looking up Travers Valley from Kerr Bay, Nelson Lakes NP

Brunner Peninsula from the Kerr Bay beach

From near the dock you can access the track network on the northern side of the lake with tracks such as the Lakehead Track, Bellbird Walk, Honeydew Walk, Loop Walk, St Arnaud Range Track and of course the classic Travers-Sabine Circuit. The route of the Te Araroa Trail also goes down the northern side of the lake and continues up the Travers Valley to cross Travers Pass (1700 asl)

Dock and boat ramp at Kerr Bay, Nelson Lakes NP

The northern end of Kerr Bay has a dock and a boat ramp for launching watercraft and it is always one of the best places to observe Lake Rotoiti. I have been here many, many times enroute to other places especially the head of the lake which I have visited over ten times now. 

The head of Lake Rotoiti back in July of 2021

Another point of interest here is the DOC Kerr Bay Campsite which I personally think is the nicest in the park. The campsite has spots for caravans, camper vans and tents and it was super busy as it always is from Christmas to the end of January. 

Entrance to Kerr Bay Campsite, St Arnaud

I have stayed here three times now and I think it is well set up with decent campsites, a good cooking shelter, showers and brand new ablution block. You can book a spot from early December right up to Easter and it makes a great home away from home for people travelling the upper South Island. 

Kerr Bay Campsite was full that weekend!!!

The shelter is a great addition with a cooker with gas supplied, filtered water, sinks and benches, tables and recycling facilities. It is never full and is a good spot to interact with other people using the camp site. 

Blechyden Shelter at the Kerr Bay Campsite

Plenty of holiday makers at Kerr Bay Campsite over Christmas

You can access the northern end of Black Valley Walk by continuing up Lake Drive which runs through the Kerr Bay Campsite but this can be dangerous as it is narrow, winding and often busy. A better option is to walk up Gibbs Track on the northern edge of the campsite as this takes you up to Bridge Street through the bush. 


Start of Gibbs Track at Kerr Bay Campsite

Gibbs Track is about 700 meters long and winds its way uphill right next to Lake Drive to a point just short of the Lake Drive-Bridge Street intersection. It is surrounded by Pole Beech and Black Beech so you need to be careful of the numerous Wasps flying through the forest. 

Gibbs Track is flat at the beginning....

The Gibbs Track starts off flat but soon begins a sharp climb up an ancient moraine wall at this end of Lake Rotoiti. At one point there was a massive glacier in this valley which carved the deep basin that Lake Rotoiti sits in. As it moved up and down the lake bed it accumulated a lot of rock debris which got dumped at this point when the glacier started to retreat. 


...the Gibbs Track runs through Pole Beech...

Here is a good example of natural resilience...these trees are growing on top of an old erratic rock in about 1 centimeter of soil. They have root winding down the side of the rock to access soil at its base. Most people would walk right by this but I think it is amazing....


Native trees atop a glacial erratic rock, Gibbs Track, St Arnaud

A steeper gradient at the top of Gibbs Track, St Arnaud

Gibbs Track comes out onto Lake Drive about 200 meters from the intersection with Bridge Street. There are a number of private holiday homes on both sides of the road and they range from simple shacks to luxury multiroom mansions. I can certainly see the appeal of owning a house up here especially if you are a boat owner, hunter, angler or tramper. 


Gibbs Track ends on Lake Road, St Arnaud

You head down Lake Drive always taking care to stay off the road as much as possible...this is the main access point to the Kerr Bay Campsite and it can be busy over the summer period. 

Watch out for those cars!!!!


Nelson Lakes NP boundary on Lake Drive

Lake Road links Kerr Bay with SH 63 at Lake Rotoiti

Heading down Lake Road towards SH63 at St Arnaud

Take care as Lake Road is narrow without sidewalks

Once down on Bridge Street you turn left once again and head down towards SH63 which runs right through St Arnaud. About 300 meters down the road on the left you will see a bridge over Black Valley Stream and this is where you can once again rejoin the Black Valley Walk. 


You turn down Bridge Street towards SH63...and St Arnaud

Black Valley Walk continues past this bridge...

The walk at this end runs along the edge of a number of properties and on the eastern side of you is Black Valley Stream. There is a significant area of native planting along the river and it works well to blend everything together in a natural fashion...


Toi Toi line the side of Black Valley Stream

From the bridge it is about 200 meters back to the small track connecting the motel to the Black Valley Walk. I sauntered back down the track and back to the motel for a well deserved beverage (Barcardi and Pineapple juice) and some snacks...


Back at the intersection linking the Nelson Lakes Motel with the track...

The start of the connector track at the Nelson Lakes Motel

There was a great view of the St Arnaud Range from the motel especially in the afternoon as the low setting sun cast a golden light over the nearby mountains. 


The sun sets over the St Arnaud Range....from Nelson Lakes Motel

The Black Valley Walk is very nice with the lovely stream off to your right and it is a awesome way to get from St Arnaud village down to the side of Lake Rotoiti. When you combine it with a trip back along the Gibbs Track it makes a great wee loop walk for an evening stroll or early morning constitutional. Give it a go if you ever happen to be in St Arnaud. 


Access: Black Valley Walk starts on Bridge Street and finishes on Kerr Bay road near St Arnaud. There is a side track from the back of Nelson Lakes Motel which joins the ,main track. The loop is also accessible from Kerr Bay Road or Lake Road off SH63 (...the main road through St Arnaud...). Numerous tracks start from Kerr Bay and branch off the main Lakehead Hut Track. Gibbs Track starts on the northern edge of Kerr Bay Campsite and follows close to Lake Road to Bridge Street. The Black Valley Walk restarts from a bridge over Black Valley Stream. 
Track Times: It takes approximately an hour to walk the Black Valley Walk-Gibbs Track loop. It would be around 3 kilometers in total. 
Miscellaneous: High quality track, with multiple side tracks to other points in St Arnaud. Black Valley Stream follows the track closely. There are Wasps in the forest over summer so care must be taken. Lake Road is narrow and often busy so watch for traffic
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