Kahurangi NP: Heaphy Track, Day 5: Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai Roadend

On the final leg of the Heaphy Track

The last day of the Heaphy Track trip was the walk down the coast to the road end at Kohaihai. This is a very picturesque section of the track and I was lucky to be able to walk it in mostly fine weather as it is exposed for much of its length. 

Heaphy Track...20 Minute Beach is backed by Mid Point

Karen was waiting to collect me at Kohaihai and I was really looking forward to seeing her after a week away...

Day 5: Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai: (5 hours,18 kilometers)

I was up and out of the hut door by 7.30am on the last day and I was the first person setting off south for Kohaihai along the track. The track starts again from the bottom of the campsite and it is clearly marked by a couple of signs. You are walking along the coast for much of the day but there are significant deviations inland at both the start, middle and finish of the day to navigate around terrain features. 

Restarting the Heaphy Track at Heaphy Campsite

Last view of the estuary of the Heaphy River

The Heaphy Track heads into the forest once again...

The track starts off in some thick Nikau forest right from the edge of the campsite at Heaphy River. This forest lasted for about the first 10 minutes and then you will find yourself walking along a nice track just to the rear of the sand dunes for the rest of the way to the Heaphy Beach sign about two kilometers along the coast.

Walking through Nikau Palms at the start of day five, Heaphy Track

It was raining as I left the hut and started along the track but it actually cleared a bit so that by the time I was at Wekakura Creek I could take my jacket off. I was able to walk from there to Kohaihai in shirtsleeves which was awesome. The track was wet and greasy and it was not possible to go at anywhere like my normal speed as I just kept slipping around. 

It was obviously going to take more than 12 parsecs to make the Kessel Run...

The track was wet and muddy after the overnight rain....

An open area of the Heaphy Track about one km from the hut

Heaphy Beach stretches from the mouth of the Heaphy River to a point just past the Wekakura River. You can walk along the top of the dunes if you like but it will be more difficult than just following the track but it remains an option. 

Approaching Heaphy Beach, Heaphy Track

The track along this section meanders through a mix of Nikau Palms, lowland Podocarp bush and open cliff side track. There are sections of this track that can and will flood in high tide or very stormy conditions as it is close to the ocean. If the track is inundated it is best to return to Heaphy Hut to wait for the conditions to ease rather than being dragged out to sea. 

There are Nika Palms scattered right along the coastal track, Heaphy Track

At high tide parts of the Heaphy Track can flood....

There are some really awesome views along the coast from the track and you have the sound of the wild Tasman Sea pounding ashore just off to your right for most of the day. You can see right down to Crayfish Point and north to the Heaphy Bluffs near the river mouth. 

Cloudy conditions out over the Tasman Sea, Heaphy Track

Looking south along Heaphy Beach

Over the day you will need to cross about a dozen side streams that come down off the nearby hills and cross the track. The largest are bridged but there are still about 6-7 that are not and they could be a problem in very heavy rain. If you reach one and find it flooded you have to go back to the hut or take shelter until the water recedes...

The first of many side streams heading for Kohaihai

Giant Totora Tree right next to the Heaphy Track

I personally think this is the most interesting day of the Heaphy Track especially if the weather is bad. You are exposed to all that mother nature can chuck at you and the coastline this far up the South Island is wild and dramatic. 

Looking North along Heaphy Beach to the Heaphy Bluffs

The Heaphy Track is right behind the beach for most of the day

You eventually get towards the end of Heaphy Beach and the coastline turns rocky while the track veers inland into some nice Nikau and Podocarp forest. You are nearly at Wekakura Creek which is the first of the bigger rivers you will be crossing on the way to Kohaihai. 

Raised metal track through the Nikau Palms

The forest was Nikau, Rata and Totora Trees...

Dense lowland forest near the Wekakura River

It had been raining heavily overnight and had only stopped raining about 6.30 in the morning so all of the streams, creeks and rivers were running high. The most spectacular was the Wekakura as it has a large catchment at its head. The creek was really pumping and if there was no bridge here you would not be going any further for at least a day or two. 

Northern end of Wekakura Creek bridge....Heaphy Track

A raging Wekakura Creek from the bridge

Wekakura Creek...falling in would be fatal!!!

View to the southern end of Wekakura Creek Bridge, Heaphy Track

Past the Wekakura Creek you pass along a series of cliff side track sections on the way to 20 Minute Beach...the track is perched high above the ocean so there were some great photo opportunities. I noted a number of historic slips in this area and there was one new one from the overnight rain. If you arrived here to find a new slip take caution when crossing it as there is a steep drop off to the rocks below...

Heaphy Track...near Pt. 19 past Wekakura Creek

...the Tasman Sea was dark and thundering ashore...

You have your last clear view of the Heaphy River mouth from here...past this point you have limited views to the north as a series of headlands block the view. 

Last clear view of the Heaphy Bluffs, Heaphy Track

View south along 20 Minute Beach...Heaphy Track

20 Minute Beach is aptly named as it takes about 20 minutes to walk from one end to the other. It is a lovely looking sandy beach...again you can walk on the track or the sand hills depending on what takes your fancy. Watch for the Ongaonga along the sides of the track...it is growing in profusion along the track through to Mid Point.

DOC sign at the northern end of 20 Minute Beach...Heaphy Track

The track runs along the back of 20 Minute Beach, Heaphy Track

The point between 20 Minute Beach and Nettle Beach

You cross around a small headland and find yourself on the next beach...Nettle Beach runs down to the edge of Mid Point and the mouth of Katipo Creek. I imagine the name refers to the Ongaonga as the settlers originally thought Ongaonga was a type of native nettle. 

It is a lot more than that...

Nettle Beach on the Heaphy Track

Mid Point at the southern end of Nettle Beach, Heaphy Track

The Tasman Sea runs in close to the shoreline around Mid Point so to avoid it the track heads steeply uphill to climb up and over a headland. You are walking through lowland forest once again and there is another of those potentially problematic side streams to cross...

...the side stream were running high on the Heaphy Track...

Climbing up over Mid Point to the Katipo River, Heaphy Track

The southern side of Mid Point on the Heaphy Track

Katipo Creek is the half way point along the track to Kohaihai and it is roughly 2-2.5 hours from Heaphy Hut and the same from Kohaihai Campsite. The Katipo Creek has two channels and while the first was fast and high the second was a lot calmer. It features quite an imposing suspension bridge which would be somewhere between 100-120 meters long...

Katipo Creek Bridge, Heaphy Track

Channel one of the Katipo Creek was high

Walking over Katipo Creek Bridge on the Heaphy Track

Channel two of Katipo Creek was less flooded, Heaphy Track

Just past Katipo Creek there is a DOC campsite with a set of flush toilets, a campsite shelter and water tanks. I stopped for a 5 minute break but then had to start walking again as the sandflies are murderous here. The campsite is rough and ready but would provide shelter if you couldn't get further along the track due to slips or flooding...

Katipo River Shelter, Heaphy Track

Katipo River Shelter is half way to Kohaihai

Interior of the Katipo Creek Campsite Shelter...Heaphy Track

 One of the family groups who had been walking the track with me from James MacKay Hut passed by along Twin Beach.  I didn't see them again until the end of the track at Kohaihai. They were the ones who caught the fish out of the Heaphy River and I had a few conversations with them over the previous three days...

Walking past Twin Beach enroute for Kohaihai, Heaphy Track

Past Katipo Creek you pass by Twin Beach (it is two beaches joined together by a small isthmus) and at the far end was Crayfish Point which juts out into the Tasman Sea from the coast. There were seals and shags along these beaches and I could hear the shags chattering away in the trees next to the track...

There were Shags nesting at Twin Beach, Heaphy Track

Southern end of Twin Beach...Heaphy Track

The track heads inland from Twin Beach to pass bluffs

The area from Crayfish Point north to Heaphy Bluffs are a marine reserve which is why you cannot fish along this coastline. There are resident populations of seabirds, seals, penguins and whales which feed from the ocean within the reserve. There are a number of signs along the coast visible from both land and sea to let people know it is a reserve...

Crayfish Point on the Heaphy Track

The area from Crayfish Point to the Heaphy River is a marine reserve

Crayfish Creek was the highest of all the unbridged side streams I encountered along the coast track and when I crossed it it came up over my boots to midway between ankle and knee. This one would be a real problem in heavy rain. I'm surprised it doesn't have a bridge as it would be the easiest to build one over with big banks on both sides. 

Crayfish Creek on the Heaphy Track

Between Crayfish Point and the Swan Burn you are back in thick lowland forest away from the coast. The foliage of some of the trees along here would make for great cover in a rainstorm as there no gaps at all. I stopped along here for a longer 10 minute break and Ed and Bella (other tramping companions on the track) caught up with me...we walked together from here to Scotts Beach.

Dense bush makes for good shelter...Heaphy Track

Small cascade near Koura Beach...Heaphy Track

The Swan Burn was running high as well and I was thankful for the suspension bridge...BTW...Burn is a Scottish word for river. I seem to remember that there was no bridge here back in the late 1980's and we had to do a river crossing to get across. It would have been impossible on this day...

Crossing the Swanburn Creek Bridge on the Heaphy Track

Swanburn Creek was running high...Heaphy Track

View up the Swanburn Creek from the Heaphy Track

It is about 20 minutes walk from the Swan Burn to Scotts Beach and the track runs along the side of the cliffs past Big Rock Beach. There was a team of DOC workers doing some blasting along here to repair the track. The hillsides are steep and run right next to the track so you would need to blast new track from the rock. The sea was pounding ashore here and you could see along the coast to the Kohaihai Bluffs...and Scotts Beach!!

Ed and Bella caught up to me near Big Rock Beach...

The point between Big Rock Beach and Scotts Beach, Heaphy Track

There is a impressive waterfall on the last rocky point before Scotts Beach and it had a lot of water going over it. There is a high bridge to get past the ravine at the base of the waterfall and this was another place you once had to do a river crossing. The MTB riders have meant significant upgrades to this track so we really have them to thank for the much better conditions. 

On the Heaphy Track near Scotts Beach

...there was a waterfall next to the track...

I arrived at Scotts Beach after 3.5 hours of walking and I was pleased to see it as it is less then an hour from the campsite to Kohaihai and the end of the track. I walked past the campsite and Ed, Bella and I sat on the beach and had some early lunch. 

Looking south along Scotts Beach to Kohaihai Bluff

I arrive at Scotts Beach Campsite...Heaphy Track

View north along Scotts Beach...Heaphy Track

There is a small stream bisecting Scotts Beach at its southern end and it has cut a dramatic channel through the sand to reach the sea. This is where we had our lunch...I had some of those Sealord tuna packets on this trip and can recommend the Ginger & Lemon and Periperi flavored ones. 

They were great on my crackers...

A creek bisects the southern end of Scotts Beach...Heaphy Track

No Name Creek at the southern end of Scotts Beach

From Scotts Beach to Kohaihai is least than two kilometers BUT you have to climb up and over the Kohaihai Bluffs to get there. It takes most people about 30 minutes to the top and about the same from there to the road-end. It is quite steep climbing but just engage low gear and grind it out...you are almost finished!!!

Starting the climb over Kohaihai Bluff from Scotts Beach

I saw this interesting sign half way to the top of the Kohaihai Bluffs...it warns of sudden flash floods. The only other places I have seen these signs are around the Central Plateau volcanoes, on some of the steeper creeks on the St James Walkway and in Nelson Lakes NP. I could see that the stream bed was steep and scoured clear of vegetation so it must flood on a regular basis...

This is an unusual sign outside of volcanic areas...Heaphy Track

Flash floods are likely on this stream atop Kohaihai Bluff

There is really dense bush on the Kohaihai Bluffs so they must catch a lot of the rain bands blowing along the coast. It was typical thick and dense West Coast forest...there were also a number of cascades running down over the track from the overnight rain.

On the Heaphy Track crossing Kohaihai Bluff

There were cascades along this section of Kohaihai Bluff...Heaphy Track

Bridge over a deep ravine on Kohaihai Bluff

I eventually made it up to the apex between Scotts Beach and Kohaihai...from here it is 30 minutes down hill and then along the Kohaihai River to reach the end of the track. 

At the apex between Scotts Beach and Kohaihai

I decided to walk up to the Scotts Hill Lookout accessible from the track apex...it is about 10 minutes return and there is a picnic table and small open area with excellent views along the coastline north of the Kohaihai Bluffs. 

Scotts Hill Lookout is halfway between Scotts Beach and Kohaihai

Walking up to Scotts Lookout on Kohaihai Bluff

The trip to Scotts Beach is a popular day tramp for people visiting Kohaihai and takes about 2-2.5 hours return if you also walk the Nikau Nature Walk near the Kohaihai River Bridge. It would be a very nice walk on a fine sunny day. 

View north along the coast to Heaphy Bluff from Scotts Lookout

There is a picnic table at Scotts Lookout on Kohaihai Bluff

After about five minutes I headed back down the track and set off for Kohaihai...I was looking forward to seeing Karen after nearly a week. We were staying that night in a nice eco lodge down at Karamea and driving back to Christchurch the next day. 

The track down to the Kohaihai River is easy walking and there are some striking Rata trees along the way which were all topped by masses of red flowers. 

Heading down to Kohaihai from the apex of Kohaihai bluff

Flowering Rata Trees on the descent to Kohaihai

The Kohaihai River is just visible through the trees...

FYI: if you ever walk this section of the track there are seats about 300 meters from the apex of the Kohaihai Bluffs on both side of the hill. They both have decent views out over the surrounding area and would make a fine resting spot...

Bench seat 300 meters from the apex of Kohaihai Bluff...Heaphy Track

Just past the seat on the Kohaihai side of the Bluffs you get a great view of the distant Kohaihai Campsite. It is about 20 minutes walk away and is the final destination for trampers walking north to south along the Heaphy Track. 

First view of the Kohaihai Campsite form the Heaphy Track

The last 15 minutes are a walk across flat land to the Kohaihai Suspension Bridge and then to the track end. Mid way along here you pass the Nikau Nature Walk which is a short loop track through a grove of Nikau Palms on the banks of the Kohaihai River. I would have followed the track but I knew it floods after even light rain so I forewent the pleasure...

In the forest on the way to Kohaihai River bridge...Heaphy Track

Track junction of Heaphy Track and Nikau Walk

The start of the Nikau Walk at Kohaihai, Heaphy Track

Karen meet me on the track just past the Nikau Walk turn off as she had walking to Scotts Beach. I really appreciate that she helps me out as the transport situation to both ends of this track are rubbish. I have written a separate post about organising a trip on the Heaphy Track have a look to see how difficult it has become to get there...

I meet Karen just around this corner near Kohaihai River Bridge

The Kohaihai River suspension bridge is the third longest in New Zealand and is only surpassed by one on the Timber Trail and the new bridge at Hokitika Gorge. The river was full and deep and you could see out to the mouth of the river at Kohaihai Beach from the bridge. 

Kohaihai River Bridge, Heaphy Track

View downstream from the Kohaihai River Bridge...Heaphy Track

Looking upstream from the Kohaihai River Bridge

Kohaihai River Bridge from the side of the river

From the bridge it is just two minutes walk to the actual finish of the Heaphy Track at the Kohaihai road-end. This final section is along the banks of the Kohaihai River and it is fitting end to a great adventure...

The Heaphy Track sidles along the side of the Kohaihai River

First good view of Kohaihai Beach from the Heaphy Track

Before I knew it we were at the end of the track and I felt the elation of another track finished but also the sadness of a journey ended. It had been five days and nearly 80km's of travel through forest, bush, tussock, subalpine downlands, Nikau groves and along the wild West Coast. The Heaphy Track was an awesome tramp and my remembrance of tramping it in the late 1980's and early 1990's have been suitably enhanced with new memories. 

It is a fine Great Walk and worthy of the moniker in my opinion. 

The end of the Heaphy Track at Kohaihai road-end

BTW...the campsite at Kohaihai is a beauty...it has sites for tents, caravans and motorhomes and has a new ablution block with flush toilets and even showers. There are plenty of nearby tracks to visit and Karen said the Kohaihai Beach was very pretty if sandfly central. The road to the campsite is now sealed all the way from Karamea so if you are planning a trip to the West Coast think about heading north to the end of the road. 

Heaphy Track information at Kohaihai

More information panels at Kohaihai

DOC map and information board at Kohaihai Campsite

My highlights of this trip are many; returning to a long treasured place from my past, the changing terrain over the days, Takahe at Saxon Hut, walking in the mist and rain down to the Lewis River, giant Rata trees, Heaphy Beach and the cold, darkness of the Tasman Sea as I made my way to Kohaihai.

I had very few negatives on this trip...even walking in the rain was an experience to be appreciated. Perhaps my one comment would be the difficulty of getting to and from the track in the first place. Covid has hit the tourism sector hard and it is starting to manifest itself away from the fancy hotels, cafes and bars in fleshpots like Queenstown, Wanaka, Taupo and Rotorua. 

Shit is getting real folk's....

Kohaihai Shelter at the end of the Heaphy Track

Interior of the shelter at Kohaihai road-end on the West Coast

So that was the Heaphy Track...one of two Great Walks I am tramping this year. My next Great Walk (...hopefully..) is the Routeburn in late February. I say hopefully as the weather has turned to custard over February in 2019, 2020 and 2021 but I shall hope for the best. I will be walking from the Routeburn Shelter to the Divide over the last week of that month. Be sure to come on back and see how that adventure progresses...

Access: Getting to the track ends at either Brown River or Kohaihai is extremely difficult at this time. Covid has meant that many services are not available. See my post from earlier this year about planning a trip on the Heaphy Track for more detail....

Track Times: Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai road-end is 18 km's or 5 hours walking

Hut Details: Heaphy Hut: Great Walk, 32 bunks, gas cookers, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), toilet, water from tank, Katipo Creek Campsite Shelter: Shelter, water from tap, benches, sink, picnic table, flush toilet, Kohaihai Shelter: Day shelter, watertank, flush toilets, shower block, picnic tables

Miscellaneous: All huts and campsites MUST be booked before starting the track. MTB riders from April to October. There are several rivers and creeks to cross enroute and some may be difficult or impossible in very heavy rain. 

You Tube link: Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai